All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Second Pullout… > Sweet Pain Wall

Pain in the Neck

Name: Pain in the Neck
Rating: 1.9

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R

Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Grind, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lee Press On S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Link Up: Glitter of Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	No Gain S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	No Pain S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pain in the Neck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	36.15583, -115.43671
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	3,826 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Jan 2, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.

Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.

Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.

Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.

This is not a good line to push your limits on.

Protection

A set of draws for the bolts. Shorter climbers will find the climb awkward and clips difficult for the grade expressed here. Blowing the second clip would result in a ground fall.