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Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,594 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 2, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.

Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.

Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.

Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.

This is not a good line to push your limits on.

Protection

A set of draws for the bolts. Shorter climbers will find the climb awkward and clips difficult for the grade expressed here. Blowing the second clip would result in a ground fall.

Photos

the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
I do not think that you would deck if you blew the second bolt, at least not with a good belay. Still, it probably is not the best warm-up as the start is pretty stiff, crimpy and sharp for the grade. The route is decent and fun however. Nov 28, 2016
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
 
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
 
Not a good warmup as there is serious deck potential between bolt one and two. Nov 12, 2014
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.10+ PG13
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.10+ PG13
You will deck if you miss second clip. Fun climb if you weren't worrying about decking 20 ft at the crux. Apr 3, 2014
Jesse Kenyon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b R
Jesse Kenyon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b R
Absolutely worth doing. Very fun moves, stout, and technical. Felt WAY better after clipping the 2nd bolt. Feb 18, 2014
Ray Davalos
Encinitas, CA
  5.10a PG13
Ray Davalos   Encinitas, CA
  5.10a PG13
a little spooky as the book says, but the moves to the second clip are super fun. I think the 10c variation up the middle is scarier, the moves being much less secure. Mar 12, 2013
Ben May
Escondido, CA
 
Ben May   Escondido, CA
 
I have to bump up the stars here... because it is fun. I do have one question tho. Does the route go strait up the small crimps to the laft the of the giant hueco or is it an option to go right and opt for the monster holds then secure that second bolt? Oct 30, 2012
B Roth
st george, ut
  5.11a R
B Roth   st george, ut
  5.11a R
I'm just not seeing the 10a on this route. The first couple bolts require balance and good sloper work. I felt the opening moves on this one were more difficult than anything on glitter gulch. Mar 18, 2012
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10+
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10+
This is one of those routes where it seems that somebody decided to average the difficulty of all the moves, rather than rate it for it's single hardest section. That being said, unless you are to level where you can crush any 5.10, stick clip this one. It's not worth it. Jul 21, 2010
Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Andrew Bradberry   Golden, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Scaaaary second clip.. I blew it on my onsite attempt and hit the ground, but if you can cruise through those opening moves look for a good hold near the 2nd bolt to make your clip. May 19, 2010