Pain in the Neck
Avg: 1.7 from 90 votes
Routes in Sweet Pain Wall
|A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,594 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jan 2, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.
Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.
Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.
Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.
This is not a good line to push your limits on.