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Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Leo Henson & Randy Faulk - 1991
Page Views: 11,641 total, 68/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The namesake climb is pretty good (and soft for the grade?)... climb up very steep rock past some sharp incuts. Fun moves.

Protection

A few bolts to a lower-off.
I walked off the back side as this climb is nothing but a high ball boulder problem. Another option would be: down climb glitter gulch. Apr 17, 2017
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
I was kind of disappointed with this one. It is short, with a brief and bouldery crux. I am on the shorter side, and the jugs out left didn't work. Crimping straight through felt much more obvious and easier. Nov 28, 2016
RJ Ryan
Cambridge, MA
 
RJ Ryan   Cambridge, MA
 
totally dry in pouring rain, except for maybe the last 2 easy moves Nov 20, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.11d
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.11d
i second james's comment above. probably earns at least soft 11d if you take it straight up. more important than the grade though, it's a fun sequence to work out. don't cheat yourself out of an interesting crux! Nov 15, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Ok - after doing this again one year later - if you want to make this closer to 11d, then don't huge the huge jugs way out left at clip 3. You'll have a super thoughtful crux sequence (fun to figure out) on smaller holds going for #4 Dec 29, 2015
drewhouser
  5.11d
drewhouser  
  5.11d
I went straight up through the "crux" and it felt 11d, no harder. Maybe had I gone out left like in the pictures it would have been easier...or harder...regardless a solid 11 leader could get this after a few goes. May 27, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Definitely felt like solid 11+ or 12- to me, or maybe I was just tired. Either way, not the most aesthetically pleasing climb to look at but definitely has some fun moves. May 15, 2015
ChrisBrandenburg
Park City, UT
 
ChrisBrandenburg   Park City, UT
 
If you go left to the horn its more like 11b/c. Straight up through the crimp ladder might be 11d. Apr 2, 2015
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
 
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
 
Great route! Pretty soft for .12a though. Mar 11, 2015
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Before this the hardest I led outside was a 5.11B at the Dog Wall. I looked at Sweet Pain and wanted to do it because it looked doable and fun, not because it said 5.11D in the guidebook which for me was way harder than anything I've tried leading outside.

But I did try it and it was hard for me but tons of fun... but definitely not 5.11D. So it's funny that this website says the grade is 5.12A.

Regardless, the clips are super easy, and the sequences between clips are thoughtful and fun. One of the best climbs I've done outside! Nov 26, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks and links to this anchor to reduce wear on the anchor and facilitate cleaning of the route. Jan 25, 2014
BrianWS
  5.11+
BrianWS  
  5.11+
Excellent climb! Sustained overhanging climbing with no really hard moves. Very soft for 5.12. Mar 17, 2013
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11+
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.11+
Definitely not a 5.12, but fun all the same. Apr 24, 2012
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.11c
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.11c
11D in Handen, like glitter, its probably soft for that. Dec 9, 2010
Yeah ... I climbed Sweet Pain too. It was absolutely no problem.
As a matter of fact, unlike Chad Wolak, I did it with one hand tied behind my back. Yeah ... easy stuff. Give me somethin' harder to
climb; will ya? Jan 20, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c/d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11c/d
Keep an eye out for the huge sucker hold out left at the crux. :) Dec 29, 2008
John Soares
Corvallis, Or.
  5.11c
John Soares   Corvallis, Or.
  5.11c
very soft for the grade. 11c maybe... still fun! Feb 3, 2008
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
 
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
 
Sweet Pain is one of those soft Red Rocks routes. The grade is closer to 11c. It's still a great route just heavily grade inflated. Feb 10, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Chad -- check out the description of the crag one level up at climbingredrocks.com/rock/d…. Hope this helps. Dec 21, 2004