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Routes in Coco Crag

Adventure Guppies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco Puffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocopuss S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fontanar de Rojo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Meaning TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruta de Roja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snagglepuss S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stupid Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: KH, MC, NP
Page Views: 1,583 total, 36/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A really enjoyable new line somehow overlooked for many years til now. Follows an engaging line of features up perfect varnish with several reachy moves to a mellow, featured slab finish. A pretty classic set of moves in my book. This route was bolted ground up without hooks with no toprope previewing and no chalk. One of our party was putting in his first bolts on lead up there on a 5.11-not too shabby! We spotted this line while replacing the outdated open shuts on the neighboring routes with mussies and stainless bolts courtesy the ASCA.

Location

Between the two established 5.10s following seams and huecos up to the beautiful varnished panel and above.

Protection

All stainless bolts and hardware. Fixe rings up top for rappel.

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Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Really good line, would likely have been overlooked if left to TR (not to mention poor swinging falls). Funnest on this wall. Mar 27, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11-
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11-
While the bolts look squeezed in, the climbing is fully independent, and when you do use holds on the other routes, the movement is different (and better, imho).

Those pushing their limits may want the first bolt pre-clipped, the holds getting to it are thin and the climbing is a touch insecure if you're pushing your limit.

This route is definitely the best on the wall, and the crux section on it is spectacular- well worth the hike. Sep 4, 2016
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
Best route of the 3 in a row here, imo. not a squeeze job considering the quality of rock and um well the gallery, sweet pain, the black corridor, etc. was a bit curious if the line was intended to go left of the bolts after the pod or right?? could be climbed either way. glad it wasn't a TR Apr 22, 2016
Funny, I really like those routes. As a non-fan of rap bolting and top down tactics in general, I think that Randy and Pier stand out as real craftsmen with their consistently good sport routes. If everyone put as much thought and hard work into their top-down routes, maybe sport climbing development wouldn't be a drain catch for the chickenfeathered amongst us and their thoughtless drilling. One man's 2 cents.

PS I'm glad everyone's enjoying the route. It was fun putting it up. Dec 5, 2014
Josh Janes    
 
Squeezed in, yes, but hands down the best route of the three. If it were me I'd chop the piles to the right and left and leave this beauty. Problem solved! Nov 15, 2014
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Fun route! A bit of a squeeze in the middle, but the top section is super fun and fully independent of the other routes. Apr 21, 2014
Sixty percent of the time, it works every time. Glad ya liked the Snaggle, puss. Apr 20, 2014
Justin Streit
  5.11a
Justin Streit  
  5.11a
True, this route does seem like a bit of a squeeze around the third and fourth bolts. That said, it's a great route, smartly bolted, and definitely worth doing. Very fun crux sequences. And it's made with real panther, so you know it's good. Apr 19, 2014
I'm a fan of squeezing it in there, hence the name of the route. Glad you like my squeeze job, seems to be getting enjoyed frequently these days.

In all seriousness though I thought long and hard before getting on this, I didn't want to crowd the other lines, and I think that in the end this line is a more interesting lead than it would have been a TR. Randy and Pier did a great job on the original lines on this wall, so far consensus is that Snaggle is at least as good as the existing lines. Time will tell, let the fan/hate mail fly! Mar 26, 2014
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
I'm not sure it was overlooked so much as most people probably didn't want to squeeze a route in there. It is a good climb, but probably should have just been left as a TR from Cocopuss. My $0.02 Mar 26, 2014