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Routes in Coco Crag

Adventure Guppies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco Puffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocopuss S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fontanar de Rojo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Meaning TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruta de Roja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snagglepuss S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stupid Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,355 total, 10/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route follows different crack systems to the top of the cliff. Ascend the right facing flake to the top of the pillar; then follow the obvious varnished corner (crux??) to its top; and then follow the left angling wide flare to the top (some thin gear). Crux would be the obvious varnished corner; but it looks more intimidating then it is; the jams are SUPER secure. The crux is great (2 Stars) while the rest would only be 1 star.

Location

This route is 15 feet to the right of Stupid Cat at the obvious pillar feature. At the top, I recommend walking off as per Classic Corner of Calico since you'll be right on top of it.

Protection

Bring a selection of gear including some thin crack pieces for the start and also the top. No anchors so walk off right or left.
Ben Townsend  
 
More like 5.7 than 5.8. Above the varnished corner, we climbed up the face right of the bush, then traversed left into the exit crack; this section was probably the crux, and involved some creative gear placements. Apr 14, 2016
MN norske
Henderson
  5.8
MN norske   Henderson
  5.8
Great hand crack for maybe 15-20 feet. Only gear I used was .4, .75, and two 1 inch cams. After the hand crack there are still two slings in the chimney to rap down off. Top out if you want but it just seemed like a lot of work for crap climbing past where the slings were. Apr 20, 2014
When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap. Apr 10, 2007