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Routes in Coco Crag

Adventure Guppies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco Puffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocopuss S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fontanar de Rojo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Meaning TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruta de Roja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snagglepuss S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stupid Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jonathan K. O'Brien, Dustin V. Yager
Page Views: 4,616 total, 83/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on May 6, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

"OK Moon dog, HIKE!"

This climb has been bolted to honor the life and times of Moon, the dog. Moon was born at 8,000 ft. on March 12, 2000 to Mammoth Dog Teams under head dog-driver Jim Quimet. I ran dogs with Moonie running upper team for me for 3 seasons. Moon moved to New Jersey with me so I could get a Biology degree and then she lived in Rhode Island, California, and Nevada joining me on many rock climbs, many newly bolted climbs, skiing, surfing, and being my best friend before she departed us on April 13, 2013.

For a time, she was the best dog alive, typified by her "I will never give up, I will never stop" attitude, and I bolted this climb in her memory with her uncle Dusten, and the help of her uncle Mike :-) We love you Moon!!

A_ROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

Roadside chocolatey goodness



The route begins on black hangars at a short scoop/ overhang in very dark, varnished rock immediately left of "Adventure Guppies". A slick sequence of overhanging 5.9 moves through the first 4 bolts gives way to enjoyable climbing on the chocolatiest rock in town before another balancy-crux prior to the anchor.

Protection

Well-protected sport climb
8 protection bolts to a chain anchor, 10 draws total. 65' in height.
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.9 PG13
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.9 PG13
The rock is good and follows a fun line, however the 3rd bolt is absolute BS and the 1st one is questionable too. Aside from the 3rd cross loading the spine, both of these place the bolts near edges. You should have a MINIMUM of 8" from any edge/crack when placing a bolt. The rock can easily break out otherwise.
The 1st bolt could have been placed in a flat face just inches down and left. The 3rd could have been easily placed on the very even/flat face just below the lip. You really should fix your route Jon, early route development mistakes are understandable, but it seems strange to leave them as your legacy. Mar 27, 2017
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
Thanks Mees, I've learned a lot from this experience and all the comments, happy climbing! Aug 29, 2016
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
not a bad route, the rock is immaculate. The 3rd bolt definitely cross loads the biner, has nothing to do w/ the make of the hanger, how easy the climb is etc. Has everything to do with it being in the wrong location, pretty simple no disrespect intended. Apr 22, 2016
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 


These climbs are always crowded and make nice, enjoyable additions to the coco crag.

Both were done early in my new routing experience and the constructive criticism from other locals experienced with new routing is always appreciated: bolting highly featured 5.5-5.9 red rock climbs can be very challenging and i did consider each of your suggestions fully. I've come to find that it is much easier to bolt climbs that are more difficult and less featured.

i hope those of you that exist in a reality where you are leading bolted 5.8/5.9 climbs can grow to appreciate the challenges, work, love, and effort that new route authors put into the thankless task of providing you with rock climbs at your grade, before I moved here I often wondered why route authors don't often bolt many 7's, 8's or 9's, now I understand completely. Where i'm from, a new route scored a "thank you" before the critiques started and i thought that was better for everyone. May 16, 2015
I have to agree with Justin. The climbing isn't bad on these routes, but the bolting leaves a lot to be desired. If I didn't like and respect the first ascentionist, I would say that these were climbs worth chopping. The cheap hardware store sleeve redheads, bad bolt placements, and botched but never chopped studs make these routes more ugly than they need to be. Please take the time to fix these routes. They reflect badly on the skills of the people who put them up.

In the words of Vince Vaughn: " C'mon, man-you're better than that!"

I feel better having gotten that off my chest. The occasional sloppy placement on lead is understandable due to the stress of placing while in a stressful position, but bolting badly on rappel is just inexcusable. Apr 19, 2014
This third bolt has still not been moved. Take this advice with a grain of salt, John, but as was mentioned in another comment, I think it's a good idea to move several bolt placements to just below the lip rather than having them just above as you've placed them now on this route and one to the right. Rock seems better quality and avoids biners on edges. Apr 19, 2014
Sorry guys, hadn't paid attention to the comments. John, you're correct. We were clipping with Heliums which are a larger carabiner and they were indeed loaded across the edge. Jon - I'm familiar with the hangers, but was concerned about what is pictured. The most offending bolt was pictured, but there was at least one other bolt that had a similar situation. Thanks for looking into it. Oct 30, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
thanks dude, thats great to hear. from the look of it and knowing its the 3rd bolt, i'd drop that bolt to just below that break- keeps the clip chill and will keep the leader off the deck. Sep 20, 2013
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
Dustin placed another photo of that bolt up, i didn't think it was a problem at the time of installation, now i am double-thinking, i will head up and spend some time with it and move it up a bit if it needs it. thanks again for the comments/ suggestions. Sep 20, 2013
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
I don't know what all of you are talking about. Looks like it protects well with hooks. Sep 18, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Jon- have a look at the 'Almost through the crux' picture- the bolt end carabiner looks like its being loaded over an edge on the rock. if that's the case, the carabiner can easily snap if loaded. if that's how its positioned, the bolt should be moved up an inch or two to ensure that the bolt end carabiner is not loaded over an edge while it protects the crux moves. Sep 17, 2013
There are a couple of bolts on this route that are placed in very strange locations. The third bolt in particular is placed in an area where its possible to load the carabiner cliped to the bolt across an edge. A couple of the bolts up higher are similar. Sep 13, 2013