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Routes in Coco Crag

Adventure Guppies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco Puffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocopuss S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fontanar de Rojo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Meaning TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruta de Roja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snagglepuss S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stupid Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jonathan O'Brien: May 25, 2010
Page Views: 4,688 total, 51/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on May 26, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Get guppified!

Intended to be done in 1 nice, long pitch w/ 2 distinctly different cruxes, apprx. 120'. Bolted by a trad climber in order to help people learn to lead long pitches, be sure to extend a few slings in the middle of the climb to avoid rope drag.

With a nice ledge midway it could easily be done in two: this mid-way anchor is a good opportunity to practice an entry-level, multi-pitch leader swap before heading into the canyons. The route has really cleaned up this year and is of excellent rock quality. 70 meter rope BARELY gets to the ground, tie a knot before lowering or do two rappels with a 60 m(good practice for a burgeoning climbing team;).

Roadside chocolatey goodness

the route begins at an arete with a black hangar on chocolate rock apprx. 30 ft. climber's right from cocopuss.

Well protected sport climb

apprx. 15 bolts plus two chain anchors(one anchor mid-way). hangars are painted black.

Photos

Erin
Sherman Oaks, CA
Erin   Sherman Oaks, CA
I have to agree with LB Edwards... its a VERY spicy first 3 bolts and if you're a beginning lead climber, you may want to top rope this first and then try leading it. The second pitch was awesome and I definitely recommend it!! Overall I'd grade it 5.7 EXCEPT for the first three bolts... the third bolt in particular (unless you bail out to the right) was very heady. Nov 30, 2017
LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
Really spicy beginning - definitely a 5.8+ a few moves off the deck. After that the climb is a breeze and definitely a 5.8 sustained through.

Didn't do the 2nd pitch. Jun 15, 2017
Leslie McG
  5.9-
Leslie McG  
  5.9-
Climbed this a second time. Still feel the bottom is spicy if you're short. The second pitch is fun and thoughtful.. This would be a hard lead if you're not solid at 5.9. Jan 30, 2016
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
get around the park a bit and compare the grades of classic trad climbs against this climb that was bolted for burgeoning trad climbers and you'll be a little red in the face.. "adventure guppies" is a play on "adventure punks"... in this case, context is everything ;-)

this climb was bolted for those of us that have sights set on the canyons and it I HOPE it puts folks on track to someday lead adventure guppies as well!!

p.s. i think adventure punks is the pride of red rock BUT i've not been able to do the warrior yet... make sure you guys hit the challenger wall someday too... if someone is inspired pm me and let's go climb!

Sep 10, 2015
Leslie McG
  5.9-
Leslie McG  
  5.9-
I have to concur with Mr. Wilder. This would be a very challenging first lead for a new 5.8 climber. The slab from the ground to the 4th bolt is thin and requires good technique or a groundfall would ensue. Really fun route that makes you think ( through the first 4 bolts) but not for a new leader who is used to Red Rock jugfests. Aug 21, 2015
Jeff Oslik
Tucson, AZ
Jeff Oslik   Tucson, AZ
If you don't have a 70, or don't want to rap twice, you can do the first pitch with a 60 to the 2 bolt mid-point anchor. Nice for a warm-up before jumping on the harder routes. Apr 13, 2015
jim climber
  5.8
jim climber  
  5.8
Ok, i have been in town climbing Red Rock for 6 months. I am trying to go from gym climber to sport climber to trad climber to good overall climber. "Adventure guppies" was suggested to me along this vein so I went up there this weekend with 3 friends that are all in the same situation as I am:

1st: thanks to the FA team! SO many bolts!!! we were all so greatful to have this chance to learn to work together better, we love the route and , it was SO long! SO cool to be up there in one pitch! we had to rappel twice with our 60 meter and we learned a LOT from that! thanks for a cozy ledge rappel!!

2nd: who said there is poor rock on this climb? we have climbed a lot in the loop at the pullouts and THIS cliff has the best bolted rock we've seen! it is that dark, desert varnish and we could not find a SINGLE friable rock on this climb and the bolts were so close together that we could "z clip" in several places: "PG-13" is not valid. furthermore, the last 60 ft. of the climb were AWESOME!!!! ( WE almost didn't do the 2nd pitch because of the comment and, now, we can't imagine he's ever even climbed the route! SO glad we did the entire route!) listen to the majority that say this is a great climb and ignore the one guy that must have been in a bad mood the day he climbed it...


Jim and friends


p.s. WE stayed right at the crux and found great crimps. I was able to onsight the climb and i never got a 5.9 without taking or falling. who knows what that means though! We think that the route being so long is why people may think it is harder than 5.8. May 6, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9
Enjoyable climb. And way harder than 5.7. I thought the cruxes on both pitches were a bit thin for 5.8 and more like 5.9, but it may depend on where you climb. At the first bulge on pitch 2, I climbed on holds just left of the bolt and thought it was 5.9, but other friends climbed to the right and thought it was 5.8. May 29, 2012
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
ha! just goes to show how subjective rock climbing can be... i thought it was over-bolted (purposely) and very safe. also felt it isn't worth the time to rope up unless you do the whole pitch, the best warm-up is in the final bulges.

i maintain! she's a good beginner climb! LOL...

seriously tho, thanks for the feedback, i'll keep in mind on future installations...


enjoy,

jon Mar 23, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 PG13
this route is definitely harder than 5.7- I'd be inclined to rate it 5.9, if only to keep 5.8 climbers from decking before they can clip the high second bolt. (and I've climbed plenty of all three grades in Red Rock...including the Friar, the 1st pitch of which is easier than this thing.)

I think the first pitch is worthwhile if you're in the area- its a decent warmup to the two .10s nearby. The upper pitch is probably not worth doing- the rock is very poor and the rope stretch would mean that a ledgefall is possible even two bolts into it if you're belaying from the ground.

A single 70m was totally fine- had about 10' left over after lowering. Mar 23, 2012
Damn, Jon, those are the only 7s you've done? Shit, son, you need to stretch your legs a bit...check out Pillar Talk, then let me know what you think about the grade- Feb 8, 2012
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
we struggled with the grade, all involved felt it was a 5.7/+. i'm against sandbagging a beginner climb so we said 5.8-. this would be a fine 1st lead at that grade.




go jump on some herbst, van betten, harrison, or smith routes before you coin the phrase "red rock 5.9"! (1st pitch of the friar is infinitely more difficult than adventure guppies and it is ranked a 5.7... birdland is harder too at 5.7+. these are the only other 5.7's i've done in the park)





happy climbing!


jon Feb 8, 2012