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Routes in Coco Crag

Adventure Guppies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco Puffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocopuss S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fontanar de Rojo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Meaning TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruta de Roja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snagglepuss S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stupid Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 961 total, 7/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route has a couple good moves but is lacking a distinct crux. Pro is somewhat mossy so be careful. This route is worth doing once while in the area getting the other routes ticked off. NOTICE: This route and Fontanar's descriptions and length in the Brock/McMillan guidebood are off; routes are at around 180 feet in length!

Location

This route shares the same start as Fontanar; but after about 15 feet on the pillar; traverse right on big holds to the obvious thin crack. Follow this crack up to the chimney; climb through the chimney and up the face to build your anchor.

Protection

Trad rack only with more of the small to medium sized wires and cams. Be a little careful; the varnished crack down low is a little mossy; make sure your placements are good. Up high, there is some friable rock so climb softly. No anchors; just walk off like you would on Fontanar de Rojo.
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I would agree on lack of pro down low, the climbing there is quite easy though. Still pretty mossy in the crack. I wasn't lichen it. Mar 27, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
Fun and well protected, more like 5.6 than 5.7. We traversed into the right crack a bit higher, at a diagonal seam, rather than stepping right at the initial ledge. 180' is about right if you do all the climbing, though one could stop at about 150' and then scramble up a loose gully on the right. Apr 14, 2016
MN norske
Henderson
  5.6 PG13
MN norske   Henderson
  5.6 PG13
Slings at the top are gone. Had to traverse over to the anchors for the 5.8 sport anchors. PG-13 due to the lack of protection down low. Apr 20, 2014
When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap. Apr 10, 2007