PRINT: Rock Climb Snagglepuss, Red Rocks

Snagglepuss

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 283 votes
FA: KH, MC, NP
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Coco Crag

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

A really enjoyable new line somehow overlooked for many years til now. Follows an engaging line of features up perfect varnish with several reachy moves to a mellow, featured slab finish. A pretty classic set of moves in my book. This route was bolted ground up without hooks with no toprope previewing and no chalk. One of our party was putting in his first bolts on lead up there on a 5.11-not too shabby! We spotted this line while replacing the outdated open shuts on the neighboring routes with mussies and stainless bolts courtesy the ASCA.

Location

Between the two established 5.10s following seams and huecos up to the beautiful varnished panel and above.

Protection

All stainless bolts and hardware. Fixe rings up top for rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Great route! Get on it!

The upper crux comes after the good horizontal where Gary's hands are

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

sqwirll
Las Vegas

I'm not sure it was overlooked so much as most people probably didn't want to squeeze a route in there. It is a good climb, but probably should have just been left as a TR from Cocopuss. My $0.02 Mar 26, 2014

Cunning Linguist

5.11-

I'm a fan of squeezing it in there, hence the name of the route. Glad you like my squeeze job, seems to be getting enjoyed frequently these days.

In all seriousness though I thought long and hard before getting on this, I didn't want to crowd the other lines, and I think that in the end this line is a more interesting lead than it would have been a TR. Randy and Pier did a great job on the original lines on this wall, so far consensus is that Snaggle is at least as good as the existing lines. Time will tell, let the fan/hate mail fly! Mar 26, 2014

Justin Streit
Las Vegas, NV

5.11a

True, this route does seem like a bit of a squeeze around the third and fourth bolts. That said, it's a great route, smartly bolted, and definitely worth doing. Very fun crux sequences. And it's made with real panther, so you know it's good. Apr 19, 2014

Cunning Linguist

5.11-

Sixty percent of the time, it works every time. Glad ya liked the Snaggle, puss. Apr 20, 2014

Short Fall Sean
Bishop, CA

Fun route! A bit of a squeeze in the middle, but the top section is super fun and fully independent of the other routes. Apr 21, 2014

Josh Janes

Squeezed in, yes, but hands down the best route of the three. If it were me I'd chop the piles to the right and left and leave this beauty. Problem solved! Nov 15, 2014

Cunning Linguist

5.11-

Funny, I really like those routes. As a non-fan of rap bolting and top down tactics in general, I think that Randy and Pier stand out as real craftsmen with their consistently good sport routes. If everyone put as much thought and hard work into their top-down routes, maybe sport climbing development wouldn't be a drain catch for the chickenfeathered amongst us and their thoughtless drilling. One man's 2 cents.

PS I'm glad everyone's enjoying the route. It was fun putting it up. Dec 5, 2014

Nick Drake
Kent, WA

Really good line, would likely have been overlooked if left to TR (not to mention poor swinging falls). Funnest on this wall. Mar 27, 2017

Brandon Newton
Nashville, TN

great line, surprising it has no stars in the guidebook. stay completely direct on the bolt line for full value. Feb 21, 2020

Andrew Walker
Berkeley, CA

5.11a

This might be my favorite pitch I've ever climbed on any route anywhere (so far). I stayed slightly right of the bolt line after the reach move to the pod rail - directly up is blank and slightly left felt way harder. Not sure which way was intended but "right" had some fun moves and did not feel off-route, it's plenty close to the bolt line and is a very logical way to go IMHO. Jan 8, 2021

Bob Bates
Las Vegas

This climb is a blast! Looks harder than it is. Feb 24, 2021

Keith Boone
Henderson, NV

Terrific climb from start to finish Dec 13, 2021

Charlie S
NV

5.11a/b

You keep thinking you've done the crux and then you hit the next one. Remarkably consistent with thought provoking moves one after the other. Oct 20, 2022

Natalie Blackburn
Oakland, CA

Truly an absurdly good route, and I'm going to have to give it some serious goes. It's thin, but not unbearably so, and you feel really accomplished each time you make upward progress. I'm 5'4", and doing several of the cruxy moves required really high feet and commitment to stick. I guess next time I'm in Vegas, I'll see how willing I am to commit above my last piece. Sep 27, 2023

Harris Kashtan

5.11a

Very fun route that definitely kicks it into gear once you hit the varnished headwall at the top. I couldn't quite figure out which was easier, going up the left or right side of it as trying to straight at it looked like it required some really long moves. This has it's own anchors though it can easily be TR'd from Cocopuss with a directional at one of the bolts. Oct 10, 2023