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Routes in Coco Crag

Adventure Guppies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco Puffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cocopuss S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fontanar de Rojo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Meaning TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruta de Roja T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snagglepuss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stupid Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Pier & Randy Marsh
Page Views: 6,953 total · 49/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


193 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is an EXCELLENT sport route on the left side of the Coco Crag about 3 feet right of the obvious chimney. Varied movements; great protection; and climbing that is much steeper than it appears from the ground; as good as any sport route in Red Rocks at the grade IMHO. Brock guidebook says 10b but it might be 10a'ish??

Location

This is the first obvious bolted line just right of the chimney. Rappel from the anchors with one 60 meter rope; a 50 might make it too??

Protection

8 Bolts lead to some anchors on the slab above. The route is well protected and climbs great.
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.9
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.9
i think the grade works if you stick to the bolts at the roof/arete, it's easy to go waay left and pull up on dyna-jugs but it's sketchily away and around from the bolt... that's my take on it anyway. it IS fun, the one on the right is awesome too! Jul 20, 2009
Chris C
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Chris C   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Please update the protection. There are now 9 bolts with open loop anchors on top. 4-26-11. Apr 27, 2011
scotticusmaximus
Santa Cruz, CA
 
scotticusmaximus   Santa Cruz, CA
 
A joy of a climb! It has a little bit of everything mixed in. Add to that some nice views at the top and being away from the hustle and bustle of the popular crags and you have yourself a gem - definitely worth the hike out! Apr 28, 2012
Anchor replaced with half inch stainless and mussies courtesy the ASCA. Mar 26, 2014
Scott360
Las Vegas
5.10a
Scott360   Las Vegas
5.10a
Fun climb with a bit of variety--technical, balance moves as well as a bulge or two to pull. A wee bit more challenging if, through the first few blots, you stay right. Length: 70 feet--not very important to most, but the rope I had that day was a 45m (chopped 50m), and I measured a half length at 74'. I had approx. four feet remaining before climber got to anchor. May 23, 2014
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
didn't climb as well as it looks, the holds take you left and the bolts take your right, resulting in an awkward bit of climbing. Fun route nonetheless Apr 22, 2016
Gabe H
New York
  5.10a
Gabe H   New York
  5.10a
Nice route, I believe easier if you stay left and just stretch back right a little to get the clips. Felt like a solid 10a. Really well protected, although I counted 9 bolts to the top! May 1, 2017
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.10-
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
  5.10-
This was the crown jewel of a climb for our last day in Red Rocks - wish we came to this area first than trying to get on the low grade trad climbs in the Mecca. Shaded mid-day. It actually got a little chilly for us we had to use the ledge towards the top of this climb for a little warm up for the fingers. Did this in late-April.

I'm giving this a classic in comparison to the other climbs on this wall and everything else in Calico - next time we're hitting Big Bad Wolf. Jun 15, 2017
Sweet Climb. It was the last and nicest climb of a 5 day trip. Well bolted and gives you access to putting up top rope on 5.11 and 5.10d to the right. Nov 26, 2017

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