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Mar 27, 2025
This is a zero bolt variation. Mind passing the first bolt and clipping the third bolt, the under-clings an… View Comment
Apr 21, 2023
One of the anchor biners is a locker that is currently welded shut. View Comment
Apr 19, 2023
Bolt 3 has been replaced View Comment
Nov 7, 2022
Lower-off anchors are getting thin and should be replaced soon. If anyone has the means or knows how to get… View Comment
Oct 12, 2022
I believe the bolts have been chopped at the bottom to preserve the rock paintings View Comment
Oct 12, 2022
I believe the bolts have been chopped to preserve the rock paintings View Comment
Oct 12, 2022
Anchor bolts but no hangers or chains as of Oct 2022 View Comment
Sep 26, 2022
@Andre, most people would actually climb the line before giving it a rating. Unless you're rating the appro… View Comment
Sep 6, 2022
To continue up The Shining from the top of the Diamond, rap ~3 m to a station, and then ~30 m down into the… View Comment
Aug 22, 2022
I'm pretty sure this was retro-bolted. There are at least 12 bolts, if not a couple more, and no sections t… View Comment
Aug 12, 2022
Hanger is gone off the first bolt, consider stick clipping (you might have to scramble up the slab to the r… View Comment
Aug 12, 2022
Hangers are gone off the anchor bolts, walk your rope around the not dead tree to lower off. View Comment
May 8, 2022
Anchor biner is locked shut, bring something to go in straight and thread. Back clean/skip bolt 3, and… View Comment
Sep 7, 2021
Gear beta below . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starting from the leftward traverse: 1. 0.3/… View Comment
Sep 7, 2021
Climbed Air Voyage straight into the shield feature where the bolts start- this makes more sense and straig… View Comment
Jun 14, 2021
The furthest right line; walk up the 2nd class slab and then climb in on the left slanting wave feature to… View Comment
May 17, 2021
Rapping from the mid-ramp anchors on pitch 2 is a rope stretcher at 35 m. View Comment
Oct 26, 2020
Consider clipping the first 5 bolts and ignoring the rest View Comment
Oct 24, 2020
Orient your traverse off of "Building a Mystery" which heads up at the second traverse perma View Comment
Oct 6, 2020
Really good beta from Hans, including his topo which shows the toe of the ridge/gully that marks the end of… View Comment
Sep 24, 2020
Some gear beta below: . . . . . -BD 0.5 at first horizontal off the deck (~4-5 m) -Wires for ~8 m -… View Comment
Sep 13, 2020
One of the holds in the top boulder may snap eventually; if it does, the grade will not change. Not as… View Comment
Sep 2, 2020
This Jasper mega classic is on the cover of the guide book (Northern Exposure, northernexposurejasper.com)… View Comment
Sep 2, 2020
The trail is not entirely obvious from below, but you should be able to pick it up the higher you get on th… View Comment
Sep 2, 2020
Bonus fat metolius hangers above spiderman slab if you want to rap in, new fixe rap hangers above Crank/Las… View Comment
Aug 11, 2020
You may want to pre-hang the draw on bolt 2, which you cannot do with a stick clip. To do so, take a warm-u… View Comment
Aug 2, 2020
publications.americanalpine… View Comment
Jul 31, 2020
There seems to be some sort of "direct" start to the line that starts down/right of the normal start. Look… View Comment
Jul 31, 2020
Funny story about the FA, blew my flash attempt by ripping a toaster sized rock out of the rotten corner di… View Comment
Jul 31, 2020
A couple of safety notes- P4 - there are some small fragile plates out to the left in the vicinity of b… View Comment
Jul 14, 2020
Not an ideal wall to get pictures for topo's- both lines are nearly plum despite the distortion in this pic… View Comment
Jun 25, 2020
"Thank God" hold after bolt 6 is loose, but won't come off in the direction you hit it- don't pry it out!… View Comment
Jun 14, 2020
You have to appreciate from this photo that Konstantin, one way or another, fixed a rope to the anchors of… View Comment
Jun 13, 2020
Little Russia, The Back Wall: 1. Jenna's Bag of Tricks, 5.10d, 8 draws 2. The Vern, 5.11a, 8 draws 3. Gr… View Comment
Jun 13, 2020
The Far Left: 1. BaBach, 5.11b, 6 draws (unconfirmed grade) 2. Hot Blais, 5.11a, 10 draws 3. Davy Jones… View Comment
Jun 13, 2020
The North Face: 1. Le Diedre de McKinny, 5.12c, 8 draws 2. McKinny Directe, 5.12d, 8 draws 3. Petit Bret… View Comment
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