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Areas in Banff National Park

Bath Creek 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cascade Mountain 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Castle Mountain 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Haffner Creek 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 18
Lake Louise 19 / 33 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
Mount Edith 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mount Louis 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Mount Victoria North Summit 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Mt. Bourgeau 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 5
Mt. Cory 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Mt. Norquay 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Mt. Quadra 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mt. Rundle 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 4
Protection Valley 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Raven Crag 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Rundle Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Saddle Mountain 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sawback Range (ice) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sentinel Pass 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Stanley Headwall 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 6 / 8 / 8
Storm Creek Headwall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2
Triangle Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1
Tunnel Mountain 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Valley of the Ten Peaks 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 8 / 8

Description [Suggest Change]

Banff National Park is Canada's first and most famous National Park. People come from all over the world to sightsee, hike, camp, raft, ski, scramble and of course climb year round.

The alpine climbing is clearly the highlight of the park. Many world famous peaks and tough ascents are located within the boundaries of the park. There are countless summits for the aspiring alpinist to attempt, some easy scrambles, some 5.9-M4-A4 unrepeated horror shows. Many of North America's finest alpinists and climbers cut their teeth climbing Banff's peaks.

The ice climbing in the park is also world famous, with a lifetime of ice available almost year round, from road-side cragging to 2000' WI6 routes. The typical ice season lasts from Mid-November into May and June (depending on how desperate for ice you are).

Rock climbers have a lot to choose from as well. Though the rock is fairly chossy (some have described it as the worst rock in North America that still gets climbed), the routes are many from small sport crags to huge alpine rock routes. The best quality rock is found in the quartzite of Back of the Lake at Lake Louise, whereas big, aesthetic routes can be found in palaces like Castle Mountain, Mt. Louis and the Tower of Babel.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Banff National Park is located along the Trans-Canada highway running from Calgary, AB to Vancouver, BC. The easiest way to get in is to fly into Calgary International Airport and rent a vehicle; the drive is about 70 miles to the park boundary. Bus service is also avialble from Calgary and places beyond.

Park Fees

[Suggest Change]
Banff is a heavily used National Park, with the oddity of containing a busy town. Park Fees can add up if you're in the are for more than a week, so consider buying an annual pass.

Where to Stay

[Suggest Change]
ACC Club House
The Alpine Club of Canada's Club House is in Canmore, a half-hour away from Banff. It's not a hut, it's the club house, so there's easy road access. There are fridges and a kitchen, showers, sauna, mountaineering library, and they server beer (especially Big Rock Trad Ale). Check their website for all the details on reciprocal agreements with other mountaineering clubs. It was worth it for me (Peter Spindloe) to become a member just to stay there.

The Banff Centre for Mountain Culture
Yes, this is where the Banff Festival of Mountain Films comes from. It's actually more like a campus that has year round events, like the festival, as well as performing arts classes, business leadership seminars, etc. They have dormitories that they rent out like hotel rooms when they aren't full. I was in the area on a road trip and my partner got pretty sick so we got a room there for a few days for him to recover, rather than tenting it. I'm double checking on whether they still do this, but it wouldn't hurt to call if you're in the area.

Camping
There are a lot of places to camp (click the heading for the list), but the two most economical are the Banff Overflow lot and the Lake Louise Overflow lot as they don't have electrical hookups and the associated cost.

142 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Banff National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 6
Centre Ice Bulge Direct
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI6
 11
Nemesis
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI4
 42
The Professor Falls
Ice 6 pitches
WI3 PG13
 19
Cascade Falls
Ice 5 pitches
WI4-5
 39
Louise Falls
Ice 3 pitches
WI5 M8
 4
Man Yoga
Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI5
 11
Bourgeau Left-Hand
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 15
Brewer Buttress
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow PG13
 18
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Aftonroe
Sport 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6
 6
French Reality
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
South Face
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Public Enemy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Cardiac Arete
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Wicked Gravity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Centre Ice Bulge Direct Valley of the T… > Mount Fay
 6
WI3 Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Nemesis Stanley Headwall
 11
WI6 Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
The Professor Falls Mt. Rundle > Professor Falls Area
 42
WI4 Ice 6 pitches
Cascade Falls Cascade Mtn > Cascade Mtn Ice
 19
WI3 PG13 Ice 5 pitches
Louise Falls Lake Louise > Lake Louise Ice
 39
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
Man Yoga Stanley Headwall
 4
WI5 M8 Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Bourgeau Left-Hand Mt. Bourgeau
 11
WI5 Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Brewer Buttress Castle Mtn
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
East Ridge Valley of the T… > Mt. Temple
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
Aftonroe Mt. Cory > Take it for Granite
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 8 pitches
French Reality Stanley Headwall
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
South Face Sentinel Pass > Grand Sentinel
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Public Enemy Lake Louise > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cardiac Arete Sentinel Pass > Grand Sentinel
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Wicked Gravity Lake Louise > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Banff National Park »

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