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Zardoz Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Zardoz Wall

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Zardoz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Elevation:	4,927 ft	1,502 m
GPS:	52.11521, -116.45133 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	778 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Dave Rone on Jan 12, 2021 · Updates
Admins:	Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The incredibly imposing wall that looms at the end of the canyon (the canyon makes a nearly 90 degree bend and turns into a narrow slot here). Currently this wall has one climb, and one open project. The rock is unbelievably compact, "Zardoz" is likely the easiest line up this wall!

"Zardoz" follows a series of somewhat obvious weaknesses. The rest of the wall is characteristically blank (incredibly shallow pockets, nearly imaginary crimps, and shallow corners). Serious potential for development at higher grades.

You are blind to incoming weather, and the canyon is so narrow that a Spot does not get a signal. Very cold down low, and inaccessible in the early season due to snowmelt. Wait until at least July to attempt anything here.

Open Project: "Mono for Alexis", bolted in honour of the late Alexis Rousseau. Starts from ~20 m up the slab from Zardoz. P1, 15 m, 7 bolts, 5.9+. P2, 25 m, 7 bolts, at minimum 5.14.

Getting There

From the parking lot, head up the trail on the East/North side of the creek. Take the well worn trail, branching left (signed) on a well worn trail that cuts a side slope before dropping back to the creek. Cross the creek just before it enters the canyon and pick up the trail on the other side. It will deposit you at The Overhang.

From the Overhang head ~300 m upstream. Use via ferrata's/fixed lines to gain the two waterfalls. Zardoz wall is at the "end" of the canyon, where the canyon cuts hard right and narrows.