Elevation: 6,212 ft
GPS: 50.931, -114.873 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,949,247 total · 11,302/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

Description

Alberta is the epicenter (or epicentre) of Canadian Alpine climbing with countless snow and ice covered peaks, glaciers and famous north faces. Alberta is also famous for some of the best ice climbing in the world.

Fortunately, Alberta is also well rounded and has sport and trad rock climbing a-plenty. The limestone and quartzite in the river canyons in the Canmore area probably have Canada's greatest concentrations of sport routes. Trad cragging is perhaps a little more limited than some other areas as the limestone of famous peaks like Yamnuska have great history and great routes but less solid rock; the climbing is more adventurous than a granite-trained tradster might be used to.

Getting There

Calgary provides easy access to Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and all of the surrounding areas. Edmonton provides access if your destinations are further north.

Guiding Services

There are a large number of guides in large and small operations in the area. Guides on Crown lands are generally required to hold an ACMG certification for their discipline. You can find a guide through the ACMG search: http://acmg.ca/03public/guides/memberlist_mg.asp

Other Relevant Websites

Consult this list of great websites for the valley:

TABVAR.org


The tabvar site is your organization for bolting, safety, partnership and rock climbing culture. They are the ones who pay for the bolts you clip. Yes, they pay for them. Send them some love, donate or be kind.

Rockies Obscure


A project by Greg Cornell which is documenting lots of cool lines in the rockies. Keep it up Greg!

Banff Rock old guidebook


Chris Perry's personal website hosts his old guidebook and lots of beautiful routes that you may consider doing (lots of unrepeated and alpine ones too)

Grav sports ice


Will Gadd's personal forum. read the rules and find what you want to climb this weekend. Great sharing site.

Avalanche Conditions


Check this to make sure you don't get destroyed by an avy this weekend as you are often under huge bowls of snow (think: cascade falls, for example)

Summitpost


Generally a good place to get more beta/info on climbs due to the fact that Dow W. is very active on this website and has climb most of the classic routes in the Valley

Kumpfy Shoes


Karel is the man in Canmore if you want to get your shoes resoled. Does 3.5mm vibram, 5mm vibram and 4mm stealth rubber for you 5.10 lovers. Don't toss your shoes! resole them!!

1,925 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Alberta

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 32
Polar Circus
Ice 9 pitches
WI4-5
 44
Lower Weeping Wall
Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 63
The Professor Falls
Ice 6 pitches
WI4
 33
Moonlight
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 62
Louise Falls
Ice 3 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow
 31
East Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 42
NE Buttress (aka NE Face)
Trad 11 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 45
Joy
Trad 10 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 85
Aftonroe
Sport 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
South Face
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 59
Public Enemy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Turtle Mountain
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Cardiac Arete
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 52
Meathooks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 95
Wicked Gravity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Polar Circus Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area
 32
WI5 Ice 9 pitches
Lower Weeping Wall Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area
 44
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
The Professor Falls Banff NP > Mt Rundle > Professor Falls Area
 63
WI4 Ice 6 pitches
Moonlight Kananaskis > Evan Thomas Creek > Moonlight/Snowline Area
 33
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Louise Falls Banff NP > Lake Louise > Lake Louise Ice
 62
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
East Ridge Jasper NP > Mt Edith Cavell
 31
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
NE Buttress (aka NE Face) Bow Valley > Ha Ling (formerly Chi…
 42
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 11 pitches
Joy Kananaskis > Mt Indefatigable
 45
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 10 pitches
Aftonroe Banff NP > Mt Cory > Take it for Granite
 85
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 8 pitches
South Face Banff NP > Sentinel Pass > Grand Sentinel
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Public Enemy Banff NP > … > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 59
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Turtle Mountain Banff NP > … > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardiac Arete Banff NP > Sentinel Pass > Grand Sentinel
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Meathooks Bow Valley > Grassi Lakes > Meathooks Area
 52
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wicked Gravity Banff NP > … > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 95
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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