Elevation: 6,212 ft
GPS: 50.931, -114.873 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 645,897 total · 4,549/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007 with updates from FosterK
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra
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Description

Alberta is the epicenter (or epicentre) of Canadian Alpine climbing with countless snow and ice covered peaks, glaciers and famous north faces. Alberta is also famous for some of the best ice climbing in the world.

Fortunately, Alberta is also well rounded and has sport and trad rock climbing a-plenty. The limestone and quartzite in the river canyons in the Canmore area probably have Canada's greatest concentrations of sport routes. Trad cragging is perhaps a little more limited than some other areas as the limestone of famous peaks like Yamnuska have great history and great routes but less solid rock; the climbing is more adventurous than a granite-trained tradster might be used to.

Getting There

Calgary provides easy access to Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and all of the surrounding areas. Edmonton provides access if your destinations are further north.

Guiding Services

There are a large number of guides in large and small operations in the area. Guides on Crown lands are generally required to hold an ACMG certification for their discipline. You can find a guide through the ACMG search: http://acmg.ca/03public/guides/memberlist_mg.asp

Other Relevant Websites

Consult this list of great websites for the valley:

TABVAR.org


The tabvar site is your organization for bolting, safety, partnership and rock climbing culture. They are the ones who pay for the bolts you clip. Yes, they pay for them. Send them some love, donate or be kind.

Rockies Obscure


A project by Greg Cornell which is documenting lots of cool lines in the rockies. Keep it up Greg!

Banff Rock old guidebook


Chris Perry's personal website hosts his old guidebook and lots of beautiful routes that you may consider doing (lots of unrepeated and alpine ones too)

Grav sports ice


Will Gadd's personal forum. read the rules and find what you want to climb this weekend. Great sharing site.

Avalanche Conditions


Check this to make sure you don't get destroyed by an avy this weekend as you are often under huge bowls of snow (think: cascade falls, for example)

Summitpost


Generally a good place to get more beta/info on climbs due to the fact that Dow W. is very active on this website and has climb most of the classic routes in the Valley

Kumpfy Shoes


Karel is the man in Canmore if you want to get your shoes resoled. Does 3.5mm vibram, 5mm vibram and 4mm stealth rubber for you 5.10 lovers. Don't toss your shoes! resole them!!

1,306 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Alberta

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 23
Polar Circus
Ice 9 pitches
WI4-5
 37
Lower Weeping Wall
Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 44
The Professor Falls
Ice 6 pitches
WI4
 22
Moonlight
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 42
Louise Falls
Ice 3 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow
 24
East Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 32
NE Buttress (aka NE Face)
Trad 11 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 30
Joy
Trad 10 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow PG13
 20
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
Aftonroe
Sport 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
South Face
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Public Enemy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Cardiac Arete
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Meathooks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 56
Wicked Gravity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Polar Circus Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area
 23
WI5 Ice 9 pitches
Lower Weeping Wall Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area
 37
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
The Professor Falls Banff NP > Mt Rundle > Professor Falls Area
 44
WI4 Ice 6 pitches
Moonlight Kananaskis > Evan Thomas Creek > Moonlight/Snowline Area
 22
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Louise Falls Banff NP > Lake Louise > Lake Louise Ice
 42
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
East Ridge Jasper NP > Mt Edith Cavell
 24
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
NE Buttress (aka NE Face) Bow Valley > Ha Ling (formerly Chi…
 32
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 11 pitches
Joy Kananaskis > Mt Indefatigable
 30
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 10 pitches
East Ridge Banff NP > Valley of the T… > Mt Temple
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
Aftonroe Banff NP > Mt Cory > Take it for Granite
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 8 pitches
South Face Banff NP > Sentinel Pass > Grand Sentinel
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Public Enemy Banff NP > … > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cardiac Arete Banff NP > Sentinel Pass > Grand Sentinel
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Meathooks Bow Valley > Grassi Lakes > Meathooks Area
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wicked Gravity Banff NP > … > Back of The Lake > Outhouse Wall
 56
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Alberta »

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Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
What is the climbing like around Edmonton? I am a warm weather dude, so can I handle it? How is access from the city... drive times for day cragging? Is there a full range from steep sport to long well protected trad of all grades?

There wasn't an International forum, so i'll see if anyone catches this and has info.

Thanks! Nov 9, 2007
This site has relatively few contributors from Alberta, especially from the Edmonton area. I wish I could help you, but perhaps the best thing will be to check out the local gyms and shops. It would be great if you could post what you find. The climbing I've done in Alberta has been great and it would be fantastic to see more contributed to this site. Nov 12, 2007
Just found out about this site. I don't think many Canadians know it exists. I'm moving back to Alberta in a few months and will spread the word about Mountain Project /contribute data about the Banff area routes. Aug 20, 2012
Johnny Kipp
St Albert Alberta
Johnny Kipp   St Albert Alberta
I'm an Alberta Boy. Born and raised near Edmonton, just got into climbing and while there isn't a ton of climbing very near Edmonton, about three hours west there is a lot.
This website has a link to every route out west of Edmonton. Single pitch sport, multi pitch trad, ice, and bouldering.
northernexposurejasper.com/
Francois Laplante has climbed everything out there and took it upon himself to write this incredible guide book. There is no more complete guide to northern Alberta climbing than this book.
Anytime in July-August you will get beautiful weather. Unless you want ice, then come back in December-Feb. Sep 16, 2016