Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Nanny Goat

Beautiful Century S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 750 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Spear, Jeff Storck Spring 2006
Page Views: 2,015 total · 55/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Aug 20, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This really good route is one of the best in the Bow Valley area for sport multipitch. Has a bit of everything and is really good and varied. It was established in excellent style of bolting on lead and it's ease of access and amount of traffic have really cleaned it up (almost no loose rock on this climb, which is something to be said about the chossies).

It is the third route in and is approached via the Nanny Goat Approach. Look for a 3rd class ramp that goes into a right facing corner. Those are the two fist pitches that are linked and listed as pitch 1 in the description.

We followed a party in August 2015 and had no trouble at stations sharing the smaller one. They decided to rap but our gut told us that the decent would be faster. It was, and it was our first time on the route and we were unsure where to go exactly.

The climb

1. 55m, 5.8 (11 bolts). Climb the slab to the corner (rappel anchor). At the top of the corner climb up and left to belay on the higher of two ledges.

2. 40m, 5.10a (9 bolts, 1 fixed piton). Climb up and right to a difficult mantle at the second bolt. Continue up then traverse left along a seam to a break. Climb easily up and right to a short left facing corner and a bolted and chained belay below a small roof.

3. 30m, 5.7 (6 bolts). Pass a small roof on the right then angle right to a head wall From the third
bolt climb right then up and left to a bolt above a slab. Climb up slabs and headwalls beforestepping left to a chain belay below a treed ledge.

4. 15m, 3rd class. Scramble up on slabs to a bolt belay at the left end of the large treed ledge. It is possible to follow the ledge right and drop into “Coire Duhb” and scramble down to the base.

5. 40m, 5.9 (10 bolts). Climb up along bolts towards a small overhang traversing left under it, almost to the large right facing corner, then up to a bolt belay on a small ledge below an overhang.

6. 25m, 5.8 (6 bolts). Pass the overhang on the right and weave up to a hanging belay.

7. 25m, 5.9 (5 bolts, 1 fixed piton). Continue up to the top of the large right facing corner where the wall gets steep at a bolt. Step right and climb the undercut wall to a crack right of the second headwall bolt. Continue up slabs to a ledge then a layback feature to a fixed piton below a small roof. Pass the roof to a bolted belay on a small ledge. Either rappel from here or angle right 10m to scree and a tree belay. NOTE: there was a 2 bolt belay station at the top after the 10m of climbing that was needed. Linking this extra pitch with the 5.9 pitch add no drag or problems.

The descent

Recommended:

Top out and do the Nanny Goat descent. From the top of the route, hike up a short distance (past two bolts which are good for bringing up the second as the trees are small) and walk down to the drainage between Nanny goat and Kid goat. There is a short rappel or class 3 down climb at the bottom.

Rappelling:

The route can be rappelled in 8 rappels on a single 60m rope. Knot the rope ends – especially for pitches 2
and 5.

Location

3 route to the left from the approach.

Protection

Bolts galore. If not linking pitches the FA recommends 8 quick draws, 4 long slings, 2 anchor slings. 60m rope. a 80m rope could be used to link larger sections as a 60m cannot link some smaller sections

Photos

Ayelet Bitton
SF, CA
 
Ayelet Bitton   SF, CA
 
Climbed this yesterday -- if you want to be able to clip every bolt, make sure you have 12 total draws (was a little confused by the description). We also tried to follow the approach beta from the old Banff Rock book which got us totally lost and in the wrong place, maybe costing us like 2 hours. Not recommended. Follow the approach bbeta on this page's parent page. There's a new fence at the end of the dump -- just follow that all the way around (around all 3 edges) to find the trail the approach beta references. Aug 6, 2018

More About Beautiful Century

Printer-Friendly