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Routes in Grand Sentinel

Cardiac Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,134 total, 67/month
Shared By: Chris DeWitt on Aug 22, 2011 with updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

This route is steep and exposed but the climbing is generally very mellow for the grade. Work a corner then pull a roof. Be careful of loose blocks.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.

P3: 5.8, 25m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.

P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4.

Location

This route is on the south side of the Grand Sentinel.

Approach Note: be careful scrambling along the talus on the left side after dropping down from the pass, the last time I was there in Aug, an entire 50m wide section started sliding/avalanching. The hiker's trail to the right side of the valley is probably safer and only an additional 10 mins.

Protection

Standard rack, .3 to 4. Rappel with a 60m rope.
bricepollock
on the road
  5.8
bricepollock   on the road
  5.8
Awesome time on a really cool feature. Found P3 to be true 5.8, often a bit wide and super fun. The roof crux is protected with a piton right below for piece of mind and there are really good holds.

We did the alternate finish straight up from top of P3, it felt 5.8 not 5.9 as some of the guidebooks say. Starts as an awesome hand jam and then turns into a small chimney (not squeeze). There is no offwidth in the transition which is nice.

Approach: 3.5 mi, 2500 ft

Timing


Approach: 2:20 hrs approach
Climb: 3 hrs with new leader
Rappel: 1.5 hrs
Descent: 2:15 hrs Aug 6, 2017
Essox514  
 
We did this route and skipped the 5.9 chimney and climb the 5.5-5.6 variation on the left. In this case, no need for anything bigger than #3. A few loose rocks here and there, but very few. No runout sections :-). The third pitch goes at 5.8 mainly for the roof, as the crack is pretty easy. Aug 17, 2016
Tom Gnyra    
You could try tabvar, another climber's forum on facebook Apr 20, 2016
steincold
Basalt
steincold   Basalt
Fun route! They have a limit/necessary number of people that must hike to the Sentinel due to bear activity. Easy to meet more folks and bail at the pass... Just can slow the approach a bit if you get caught with a slow group.

Unfortunately I lost my girlfriends camera when we got back to the parking area (or somewhere along the way) at Moraine Lake. Any ideas where else to post/look? Apr 18, 2016
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
 
Chris DeWitt   Sacramento, CA
 
Thanks Hans, I've updated the "Getting There" for the areas. Dec 13, 2012
Hans
Squamish, BC
 
Hans   Squamish, BC
 
Not much of a description, so I'll add what I can.

Approach via the trail to Sentinel Pass from Moraine Lake. As of 2012, a minimum of 4 people is required due to park restrictions from bear activity. However,this is a very popular hike so it is easy to join up with others at the trailhead.

The Grand Sentinel is located about 1km beyond the pass, towards the Paradise Valley.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.

P3: 5.8, 25m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.

P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4.

As in the description, the climbing is not terribly difficult for the grade, although there is some loose rock and runout sections. As an alternative, I would recommend the well bolted sport route on the west face, Cardiac ArĂȘte. This is a better climb IMO. Sep 5, 2012