Polar Circus

Ease of access, variety of terrain, length and position combine to create a singular route. Among the best, if not THE best, ice climb in the Canadian Rockies.

Polar Circus offers nine pitches of ice, with the crux pitch last. The bottom pitches are separated by some gully walking, which can be strenuous if the snow is deep. Eventually you'll reach the Pencil (WI6). When formed this is a free-standing, 150' tall icicle. A most impressive feature. Usually, however, the Pencil will be broken off near the top, and this being the case, climb up and right on easy ice to a bolted belay station. While it may be possible to climb a couple pitches thin ice up from the anchors, most parties will continue up right, to some small trees that can be used for running belays. After the trees, cut back left, and traverse an exposed snow basin back to the gully below the main falls.

The upper tiers are:

Tier 1: 70m ice, bolted anchors at middle and top.

Tier 2: 70m ice, then 20m snow. Bolted anchors at middle and top.

Tier 3: 90m ice.  Bolted anchors in middle in cave, and on top (top bolts may not be accessible depending on ice height).

Be aware of snow conditions and avalanche hazard!!!

The route is 27km north of the David Thompson Highway (Hwy 11). Park just before crossing a small bridge over the drainage . Follow the well-marked trail up the drainage to the base of the first ice. At this point, if snow conditions allow, climb up a steep slope on the left for several hundred meters, and then make an exposed traverse (avi hazard) right to the base of the first WI4 pitch. Otherwise, climb ice and snow up the gully to the base of the WI4 pitch.

The descent involves between 9 and 11 rappels, depending on where you left your packs. After rappelling the upper tiers, you can descend the drainage to a rappel anchor at the top of the Pencil, rather than backtrack the snow slopes. This will save about an hour and it is an exciting rappel. Be sure to check the rappel anchor carefully!!

Ice screws . . . all the way. Bolted stations exist but can be hard to find on the lower pitches. Bring cord for v-threads.