Type: Trad, Ice, 330 ft (100 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim Franken & Ian Stewart-Patterson, November 1984
Page Views: 79 total · 7/month
Shared By: Luka Bogdanovic on Mar 21, 2024 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

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Description Suggest change

This is the often thin wide smear of ice that forms on the far right side of the bench that accesses Upper Weeping Wall.

Originally climbed as the start of Nasty Habits, this 100 meters of ice will get you up to another large bench from which you can access any of the 4 routes on the upper right side of Upper Weeping wall (Mare in Winter, Ice T, Nasty Habits, Tales of Ordinary Madness).

P1 - Climb 70 meters of what can be incredibly thin and unprotectable ice at times to a snow ledge, wallow through the snow and build an ice anchor.

P2 - Climb easier and thicker ice for 20 meters to a snow ledge and a tree belay. Continue on to the upper tier climbs or make two rappels off from here.

Protection Suggest change

Stubbies and prayers depending on the conditions.

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