Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 51.16117, -115.58955
FA: Banff Climbing Club
Page Views: 15,141 total · 141/month
Shared By: Tom Jones on Jul 11, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Recently discovered this climb, and I have to say I enjoyed it way more than I thought. The entire time I thought about how no holds seemed to be terrible choss or cracked, and everything felt really solid. Nice new bolts and well spaced to feel sporty but not run out.

A good pdf can be found at banffrock.ca/Banff%20pdfs/R…

P1: Welcome to Texas, 20m, 5.5, 7 bolts
Slab moves, but nothing is hard, as there are a lot of jugs to help the slab.

P2: The Battle of the Bulges, 55m, 5.7, 16 bolts
Things start heating up a bit, where you have to start thinking. Long pitch, would not try to combine with the other pitch unless you had a lot of alpine draws.

P3: The Castling Move, 10m, 4th, 1 bolt
Walk left with one step before the anchor.

P4: Left Left Right, 5.8, 20m, 7 bolts
We combined the 4th class and P4, as the 4th class is direct and can easily be extended with one draw on the anchor. However, a fall if you do this may land you on the ledge, so YMMV.

P5: A Murder of Crows, 5.8, 50m, 17 bolts
Great! Starts into a corner and becomes really exposed quite quickly. Great fun at the grade. Ignore the rap anchor near the fourth bolt on this pitch; it is not the belay anchor, as you obviously have 13 more bolts to clip. It is a good thing to note if you need to bail early and start your descent. 

P6: Billy the Destroyer, 5.9, 30m, 12 bolts
I would tend to agree that this was the 'hardest' pitch, which is pretty subjective. To me, it felt like the hard bit lasted a short move and was just about finger strength. If you can pull on a good crimp you should be okay. Very fun and somewhat committing as you are more in a sustained flow than the other pitches.

P7: The Cooler, 5.8, 35m, 10 bolts
One hard move up a big step leads to very easy climbing. A friction slab can easily be avoided by avoiding one bolt. Overall, nothing great but a fun, quick end.

Location Suggest change

Once you reach the base of Raven's Crag, follow the trail to the left that traverses under the sport climbs until it descends steeply. Once at the bottom of the steep descent, look for the start of the climb.
Approximately 2.15km and 300m of elevation gain.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts. bring 20 or more quickdraws if you want to do longer pitches. Bring 35 if you want to link all the pitches and clip all the bolts.

Photos

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