Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Banff Climbing Club|
|Page Views:||290 total, 56/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Gnyra on Jul 11, 2017|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
DescriptionRecently discovered this climb and I have to say I enjoyed it way more than I thought. The entire time I thought about how no holds seemed to be terrible choss or cracked and everything felt really solid. Nice new bolts and well spaced to feel sporty but not run out.
A good pdf can be found at banffrock.ca/pdfs/RavenCrag…
P1: Welcome to Texas, 5.5
Opening pitch, very interesting. Slab moves but nothing is hard as there are a lot of jugs to help the slab. No friction moves really.
P2: The Battle of the Bulges, 5.7
Things start heating up a bit where you have to start thinking. Long pitch, would not try to combine with the other pitch unless you had a lot of draws and they were doubled.
P3: The Castling Move, 4th
P4: Left Left Right, 5.8
We combined these two pitches as the 4th class is direct and can easily be extended with one draw on the anchor. However, a fall if you do this may land you on the ledge so YMMV.
P5: A Murder of Crows, 5.8
Great! Starts into a corner and becomes really exposed quite quickly. Great fun at the grade.
P6: Billy the Destroyer, 5.9
I would tend to agree this was the 'hardest' pitch, which is pretty subjective. To me, it felt like the hard bit lasted a short move and was just about finger strength. If you can pull on a good crimp you should be okay. Very fun and somewhat committing as you are more in a sustained flow than the other pitches.
P7: The Cooler, 5.8
One hard move up a big step leads to very easy climbing. A friction slab can easily be avoided by avoiding one bolt. Overall, nothing great but a fun quick end.
To do it again I'd bring more draws and perhaps link these piches:
2/3, 4/5, 6/7 with a 80m rope or an uncut 70. However, may have to start climbing as a second if you run out of rope.
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