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Routes in Raven Crag

Fightclub S 5.15b 9b 37 XII- 38 E11 8a
Lost Lenore S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Plutonian Shores S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Banff Climbing Club
Page Views: 553 total · 53/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Jul 11, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description [Edit]

Recently discovered this climb and I have to say I enjoyed it way more than I thought. The entire time I thought about how no holds seemed to be terrible choss or cracked and everything felt really solid. Nice new bolts and well spaced to feel sporty but not run out.

A good pdf can be found at banffrock.ca/pdfs/RavenCrag…

P1: Welcome to Texas, 5.5

Opening pitch, very interesting. Slab moves but nothing is hard as there are a lot of jugs to help the slab. No friction moves really.

P2: The Battle of the Bulges, 5.7

Things start heating up a bit where you have to start thinking. Long pitch, would not try to combine with the other pitch unless you had a lot of draws and they were doubled.

P3: The Castling Move, 4th
P4: Left Left Right, 5.8

We combined these two pitches as the 4th class is direct and can easily be extended with one draw on the anchor. However, a fall if you do this may land you on the ledge so YMMV.

P5: A Murder of Crows, 5.8

Great! Starts into a corner and becomes really exposed quite quickly. Great fun at the grade.

P6: Billy the Destroyer, 5.9

I would tend to agree this was the 'hardest' pitch, which is pretty subjective. To me, it felt like the hard bit lasted a short move and was just about finger strength. If you can pull on a good crimp you should be okay. Very fun and somewhat committing as you are more in a sustained flow than the other pitches.

P7: The Cooler, 5.8

One hard move up a big step leads to very easy climbing. A friction slab can easily be avoided by avoiding one bolt. Overall, nothing great but a fun quick end.

To do it again I'd bring more draws and perhaps link these piches:

2/3, 4/5, 6/7 with a 80m rope or an uncut 70. However, may have to start climbing as a second if you run out of rope.

Location [Edit]

At the base of raven's, follow the trail far left and down from the sport climbs.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts. bring 20 or more quickdraws if you want to do longer pitches. Bring 35 if you want to link all the pitches and clip all the bolts.

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