| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 51.16117, -115.58955 |
| FA: | Banff Climbing Club |
| Page Views: | 15,141 total · 141/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Jones on Jul 11, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
Recently discovered this climb, and I have to say I enjoyed it way more than I thought. The entire time I thought about how no holds seemed to be terrible choss or cracked, and everything felt really solid. Nice new bolts and well spaced to feel sporty but not run out.
A good pdf can be found at banffrock.ca/Banff%20pdfs/R…
P1: Welcome to Texas, 20m, 5.5, 7 bolts
Slab moves, but nothing is hard, as there are a lot of jugs to help the slab.
P2: The Battle of the Bulges, 55m, 5.7, 16 bolts
Things start heating up a bit, where you have to start thinking. Long pitch, would not try to combine with the other pitch unless you had a lot of alpine draws.
P3: The Castling Move, 10m, 4th, 1 bolt
Walk left with one step before the anchor.
P4: Left Left Right, 5.8, 20m, 7 bolts
We combined the 4th class and P4, as the 4th class is direct and can easily be extended with one draw on the anchor. However, a fall if you do this may land you on the ledge, so YMMV.
P5: A Murder of Crows, 5.8, 50m, 17 bolts
Great! Starts into a corner and becomes really exposed quite quickly. Great fun at the grade. Ignore the rap anchor near the fourth bolt on this pitch; it is not the belay anchor, as you obviously have 13 more bolts to clip. It is a good thing to note if you need to bail early and start your descent.
P6: Billy the Destroyer, 5.9, 30m, 12 bolts
I would tend to agree that this was the 'hardest' pitch, which is pretty subjective. To me, it felt like the hard bit lasted a short move and was just about finger strength. If you can pull on a good crimp you should be okay. Very fun and somewhat committing as you are more in a sustained flow than the other pitches.
P7: The Cooler, 5.8, 35m, 10 bolts
One hard move up a big step leads to very easy climbing. A friction slab can easily be avoided by avoiding one bolt. Overall, nothing great but a fun, quick end.



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