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Routes in Professor Falls Area

Professor Falls, The WI4
Type: Ice, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Prof. Eckhard Grassman
Page Views: 4,291 total · 50/month
Shared By: Colin Simon on Mar 30, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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41 Opinions

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Description

This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.

Pitches:
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.

2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.

3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.

4. WI3. A short step.

5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.

6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.

Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable.

Protection

Screws.
V-threads for rappelling.
Janette  
The way the bolts are set up now it's actually 8 pitches. See the Ice Lines guidebook for details. Apr 19, 2014
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
This can be done in 4 pitches with some walking/simul-climbing on the section below the final pitch. Jan 19, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  WI4
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  WI4
Just an incredible, fun climb. Great way to get a ton of mileage in. The approach was super chill (not steep), a little long, but icy. I highly recommend approaching in hiking shoes with micro spikes or similar. That said, I made it without falling (barely) in climbing boots and no crampons to the rolling ice before the route. Rappels were easy with two 60m ropes. Feb 23, 2016
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
  WI4
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
  WI4
Super fun climb with a variety of terrain and views. Would be nice if they left the road open in winter given they plow it! Bikes or skis recommended for the 7km approach.

Here is a video of the climb. We didn't do the last pitch as the avalanche conditions were a bit elevated given significant new snowfall on the slope above that pitch.

youtube.com/watch?v=gd6DVga… Feb 17, 2017

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