The Professor Falls
WI4
Type: | Ice, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Prof. Eckhard Grassman |
Page Views: | 11,834 total · 69/month |
Shared By: | Colin Simon on Mar 30, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.
Pitches:
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.
2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.
3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.
4. WI3. A short step.
5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.
6. WI4-5, 30m-40m (dependent on the amount of avalanche debris at the base). Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side is generally easier than the right.
Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable. This entire route is an avalanche run-out. Be aware of conditions and take appropriate precautions.
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