Type: Ice, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Prof. Eckhard Grassman
Page Views: 5,411 total · 54/month
Shared By: Colin Simon on Mar 30, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.

Pitches:
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.

2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.

3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.

4. WI3. A short step.

5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.

6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.

Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable.

Protection

Screws.
V-threads for rappelling.

Photos