Avg: 3.9 from 60 votes
|Type:||Ice, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Prof. Eckhard Grassman|
|Page Views:||6,968 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Simon on Mar 30, 2011 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.
2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.
3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.
4. WI3. A short step.
5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.
6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.
Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable. This entire route is an avalanche run-out. Be aware of conditions and take appropriate precautions.