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Routes in Lake Louise Ice

Cable Gullies WI2-3
Louise Falls WI4-5
Type: Ice, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,712 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 14, 2012
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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42 Opinions

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Description

Louise Falls is the gem of the area and has the crowds to prove it. Expect company on weekends. The climb is often very wide, making different lines possible. The crux final pillar(s) can be kicked out casual WI4 or dead vertical hard WI5.

Beware of the daggers while on route!

P1-2 70m: Climb up to the center belay cave from the ground in one long pitch if possible. Some folks break this up into two pitches and build a belay in the safest looking spot. Mind the overhead hazard.

P3 30m: The crux. Turn the curtain from the belay cave and head straight up. The top has trees and the casual walkoff.

Location

From the Lake Louise Chateau, the route is obvious at the back right side of the lake. Follow the sled trail around the lake or walk across the frozen lake.

Descent:
Walk off climbers right (usually a donkey trail) and otter slide back down to the base. Very quick. The route can be also be rapped, but with the crowds the walk off is highly encouraged, easier, and safer.

Protection

Screws
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
It's quite a short 1st pitch using the bolted anchor, puts your belayer in a very safe location. Will likely not have verbal communication if you go to the cave on P2. Feb 6, 2017
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  WI4
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  WI4
After some hunting never could find the bolts at the top of the first pitch... guessing they were buried under the snow/ice which there was a lot of. Mar 31, 2016
Lzpup Brewster
santee, ca
 
Lzpup Brewster   santee, ca
 
Bolts added around the first corner just above the good belay spot at bottom right. Bolts added in cave in between Pillars , can split into three if you want to keep partner in view and use bolts. Feb 24, 2015
Dara
Peep's republic
 
Dara   Peep's republic
 
This is a *must do* route. Solid WI3 climbing with a nice short pillar as the crux. Great views/photos from the cave behind the pillar with the lake and the Lodge in the background. After a few raps, glissade back to the lakeside trail to applause from the tourists in the horse-drawn sled. Don't follow the sled too closely--the horses are well-fed. Jul 12, 2014