Type: Trad, 1260 ft (382 m), 12 pitches
FA: Bernie Schiesser and Sid Marty, June 1966
Page Views: 26,713 total · 171/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Sep 16, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

Length: 410m, 12 pitches
Sun Exposure: receives lots of sun
Time: 4 - 6 hours to climb the route
Approach: 30 - 45 minutes
Descent: 2 hours
car-to-car: 7 - 10 hours
Difficulty: 5.7
Rack: Cams: 0.5" to 2" (purple to yellow camalots), slings / draws

An absolutely amazing climb for the position (climbs next to a gigantic waterfall), rock quality (stellar except the shale pitch), variety of climbing (face, chimney, steep, slab, etc...), and caving! Seriously, when do you ever do a 100+m long belly crawl through a cave that ends at the top of a roaring waterfall on any other climb?

The climb itself is technically easy (see below for numbered steps) and many aspiring trad climber's first outing on something long. Be prepared to see other parties on weekends. Rockfall is only a real concern directly below the shale band, so either stick together or get outta the chimney section quickly. Many pitches can be linked and simul-climbing the ledge traverses (which are basically walks with lots of protection bolts) really speeds things up.

Here's a recent video a friend made of our ascent:

1. 40 m, 5.4. Scramble up and right to a ledge with a bolt on the wall above, about 7 m left of a large, left-facing corner. Climb up past a second bolt and then move right past a third bolt and a fixed piton into the corner. Climb up and then right out of the corner on a ramp to reach easy ground and a bolted station a short distance above.

2. 15 m, 5.4. Climb the cracked wall above on good holds past two bolts to a second bolted station at the start of a long, narrow ledge system.

3. 20 m, 4th. Walk right along the ledge (exposed) past a bolt and around an arête to a bolted station.

4. 80 m, 4th. Continue traversing right and then drop down slightly into a scree bowl and move across to the base of a slabby wall, directly below the left side of the large pinnacle.

5. 40 m, 5.5. Climb an easy, left-facing crack to a ledge (bolt), traverse right, and then follow cracks up and slightly right to a two-bolt, rappel station below an overhang at the start of the big, left-facing corner system on the left side of the pinnacle.

4 & 5 alt. (recommended) 110 m, 5.4. Pitch 5 is often wet early in the season due to windblown spray from the falls. It may be avoided by traversing right on pitch 4 about 25 meters and climbing up to a bolted station roughly above where the “trail” drops down into the scree bowl. Trend right up past a bolt and then up to a ledge with fixed anchor.  Pitch 5a. Follow ledge system to the start of pitch 6 while clipping 4 bolts.

6. 35 m, 5.6. Make an awkward move up into the corner and continue up past a fixed piton to a station in an alcove.

7. 40 m, 5.5. Follow the corner above to a ledge on the left with a fixed, rappel station. Climb easily up and right to a station at the top of the pinnacle level with, and in full view of the huge “rooster tail” in the falls.

8. 30 m, 5.7. The next pitch is very atmospheric with great views of the falls and
intimidating sound effects. Climb the wall above past three bolts to lower angle rock that leads up to a station below the shale band.

9. 25 m, 5.2. Climb easily through the shale band (no protection).

10. 25 m, 5.5. This pitch has two bolts and requires careful gear placement to avoid feeling run out. Seepage from the cave is common and can make the last bit of the pitch "exciting". Continue up and then left into a shallow groove that leads up to a station in a deep slot below the mouth of the cave.

11. 100 m. No rope is necessary beyond this point unless the climb is to be continued to the top of the cliff. However, you'll miss a great lunch spot at the top if you don't finish. Crawl along the cave passage into the realm of complete darkness and the distant thunder of the falls. After a tight section, a circle of daylight appears ahead and the sound of the falls grows louder. Finally, the cave emerges into a large basin where the stream rushes by towards the edge of the falls and the top of the cliff is visible a short distance above. Either return from here or climb one more pitch to the top of the cliff.

12. 30 m, 5.6 (optional). Scramble up and right to a single bolt belay below a short exit groove. Climb the groove and continue easily to broken ground at the top.

Location Suggest change

From the parking lot for Takakka Falls, follow the tourist trail across the bridge to the Takakkaw Falls viewpoint (10 minutes). Continue past the viewpoint on braided climber / tourist trails. When possible, get close to the wall and head up left. It is substantially tougher to go straight up the scree cone since it's like stair stepping marbles. Just shy of the top of the scree cone, start looking for the bolt that marks the start.

Route starts just right of the top of the scree cone, far left from the waterfall. Start right off scrambling up a platform about 15' up and find a fat bolt at the start.

Rap the route, can be done with a single 60m rope, but 2 makes it quicker. Avoid double rope rappels over the shale band and down the chimney section as pulling rocks onto yourself or getting the ropes stuck is common.

If topping out after the cave:
Head uphill about the distance the cave is long and look for a cairn above the bolted rap station (and the tree that used to have rap slings on it). Rap 28 meters to an intermediate rappel station slightly left and then 25 Meters back to the station at the entrance to the cave.  From there, simply reverse the route. Walk / belay the ledge traverse again. Don't be tempted to shortcut to the ground from earlier anchor than the 1st.

If not topping out after the cave:
reverse the cave and hope no one is coming the opposite direction and rap as per normal.

An alternate rappel was established in 2018 to reduce traffic jams and accidents cause by parties rappeling over ascending climbers.  A 70 meter rope (or double ropes) is required.  Details can be found here:   docs.google.com/document/d/…

Protection Suggest change

Only the two 30m chimney pitches require gear while the rest of the climb has bolts. Bring a single to double set of cams from 0.5 to 2" (purple to yellow camalots). Don't bother with nuts. The climb is essentially a sport climb with big runouts in the chimney or totally casual with a few pieces of gear.

A few small to medium cams (0.5" - 2")
slings / draws
kneepads / elbowpads