Avg: 3.8 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Tim Auger, Peter Arbic, and Reg Bunyan 1987|
|Page Views:||4,951 total · 79/month|
|Shared By:||Hans Bauck on Jul 31, 2015 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
This route is highly recommended.
From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Anything you are not bringing up the climb should be left here as the descent does not go back to the base of the climb.
Mt Louis from the approach trail.
Locate a trail that traverses below Mount Louis and follow it to the right. This trail traverses below the east ridge. At a fork, stay right for Homage to the Spider. The left fork is for the Kain route.
Follow this trail to a high point below and left of the route. Scramble up until you are approximately level with the base of the corner system, and then make an exposed traverse right across a gully to reach the base of the route. A belay bolt marks the start of the route.
Mount Louis with the line of Homage to the Spider shown
P1: 35m, 5.9 Climb the corner through a tricky bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.
P2: 50m, 5.9 Continue up the excellent corner to a bolted anchor at a ledge.
P3: 60m, 5.8 Climb straight up to a bolt belay. Alternatively continue up the corner which widens to a chimney.
The next two pitches climb the wall on the left via a left facing corner system
P4: 50m, 5.10a Climb down into a gully to the wall on the left. Climb the corner past an old anchor (optional belay - back up the very old bolts) and up through a crux section to a bolted anchor at a ledge.
P5: 55m, 5.9 Continue up the corner on the right past an optional belay and an awkward bulge to a bolted anchor in the "medieval alleyway".
P6: 20m, 5.6 Walk along the alleyway until it is possible to chimney up to its top. Belay at a large ledge
Either solo or simulclimb the ridge crest from here to the summit. There are some fourth class or easy fifth sections along here.
Though there are just 6 technical pitches, the approach is long and there is a long scrambling section at the top, as well as a somewhat lengthy descent. Leave early and bring a headlamp.