Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Bill Lowther, Ozzie Blumet, Gerry Lortie 1993
Page Views: 176 total · 21/month
Shared By: Owen McAndrew on Nov 12, 2023
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

From the anchor, climb the easy slab to a roof. Place gear and take another step up to clip the first bolt. Surmount the roof to the right, then trend back left. The crux comes after the 5th bolt, which was hard for me to clip at 5'7". Those shorter may have to take a step above the stance. A powerful sequence followed by a balancy step up brings you to the final bolt and one more puzzle to solve.

It's really good! I fell. You might not.

Location Suggest change

Cemetary Gates starts a pitch off the ground between Lost Souls and Atlantis. To access it, climb an approach pitch scrambling above the Cathonian Slab, then up and right a short way into a left-facing corner/groove. Finish on a ledge in the corner with good small nut placements, or finger-sized cams a few feet higher. You'll be about 25' down and left of Cemetary Gates and underneath a dark water streak.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack- mostly for the approach pitch and its anchor, but you'll want a few pieces to reach the first bolt as well.

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Re-bolted fall 2023