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Routes in Old New Place
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4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Berserker T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 16 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Route 17 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 35.81856, -106.18779 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 502 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Oct 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Just right of Momentum is an easier independent line at Old New Place, that wasn't identified in the guidebooks. I'll post it here because I've seen there's decent interest in these grades at White Rock and its very close to the popular Bee Sting climb. You may be able to TR this from the Bee Sting anchor, or perhaps with one redirecting piece.
Half way up the cliff, look for a hand crack formed by a left-facing flake. Climb to this from the left, starting near Momentum. Above the hand crack, step left and continue up easier cracks.
Only 1 star for the rest ledges and some uncertain flakes.
Location
Just left of #3 in the beta photo on the main page. There's also a pic of a guy soloing it: mountainproject.com/photo/1…
Photos
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