Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 830 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Starts with an insecure crux in a seam, best protected with a large RP nut. Falling here would land you on nasty blocks from 8-10' up, if the gear's no good. Pull onto easier terrain, step right, and head up climbing on easier paired finger & hand cracks to the top.

Protection

1 set cams, 1 set nuts to 3". A large RP is useful at the crux about 10' up.

2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
The start of this route spooks me with unprotected 5.9 moves up 10 feet with a ankle-breaking landing if you come off. That flaring crack 8 feet up doesn't seem to take pro very well or at all. It's always a relief to get a hold of that flake but even still, there are a couple moves to be made before a good .3 or .4 placement. Jun 5, 2008
Ed Santiago
Los Alamos, NM
Ed Santiago   Los Alamos, NM
So, um, you might notice the start is now a bit different. Sorry about that. Jun 26, 2015
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux. Aug 31, 2015