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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 794 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Starts with an insecure crux in a seam, best protected with a large RP nut. Falling here would land you on nasty blocks from 8-10' up, if the gear's no good. Pull onto easier terrain, step right, and head up climbing on easier paired finger & hand cracks to the top.

Protection

1 set cams, 1 set nuts to 3". A large RP is useful at the crux about 10' up.

2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux. Aug 31, 2015
Ed Santiago
Los Alamos, NM
Ed Santiago   Los Alamos, NM
So, um, you might notice the start is now a bit different. Sorry about that. Jun 26, 2015
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
The start of this route spooks me with unprotected 5.9 moves up 10 feet with a ankle-breaking landing if you come off. That flaring crack 8 feet up doesn't seem to take pro very well or at all. It's always a relief to get a hold of that flake but even still, there are a couple moves to be made before a good .3 or .4 placement. Jun 5, 2008