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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 817 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - All Los Alamos/White Rock climbing areas closed due to Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Starts with an insecure crux in a seam, best protected with a large RP nut. Falling here would land you on nasty blocks from 8-10' up, if the gear's no good. Pull onto easier terrain, step right, and head up climbing on easier paired finger & hand cracks to the top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

1 set cams, 1 set nuts to 3". A large RP is useful at the crux about 10' up.

2-bolt anchor.

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
The start of this route spooks me with unprotected 5.9 moves up 10 feet with a ankle-breaking landing if you come off. That flaring crack 8 feet up doesn't seem to take pro very well or at all. It's always a relief to get a hold of that flake but even still, there are a couple moves to be made before a good .3 or .4 placement. Jun 5, 2008
Ed Santiago
Los Alamos, NM
Ed Santiago   Los Alamos, NM
So, um, you might notice the start is now a bit different. Sorry about that. Jun 26, 2015
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux. Aug 31, 2015

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