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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Mike Roybal, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,336 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Sinewave: One of the most intriguing routes to be found at the Old New Place or in White Rock, for that matter. A challenging and sequency boulder problem off the deck, begin climbing the sinusoidal crack, which will test your skills and strength as you work to keep from barndooring off. The crack is more of a seam for the first 15 feet, although there are places where small RPs would provide protection; bold leaders solid at the grade will love this route. After the initial crux the grade eases for the next 15 feet with large ledges providing good rests and more opportunities to place gear. The route splits into two cracks after this: the left crack, which is assumed to be off-route, goes at a grade of 5.8 to 5.9 rattly fingers to hands with lots of face holds; the right takes you up an excellent overhanging thin fingers to tips crack which, if not for a large sinker pocket midway up on the left, would be significantly more difficult. Ten more feet of climbing in the crack and on small crimps gets you to the top of this classic route.

Historical Note: ItÂ’s reported that the late Derek Hersey freesoloed Sinewave back in the day. Think about that next time you jump on this route!


Nuts: 1 set including micros
Cams: 1 each up to #1 Camalot with doubles in the .3 to .5 range. Micro TCUs or C3s may come in handy too.
2-bolt anchor.


George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c PG13
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c PG13
This is probably the toughest "5.11" crack at White Rock that sees more than occasional action. S-Crack is way more difficult than all the other 5.11s on this cliff, and substantially harder than Unrelenting Nines at The Playground. There are at least 3 different ways I've seen people pass the crux, though some may argue that using any holds more than about 2' away from the crack itself is cheating. While most will opt to toprope it, it can be a reasonable lead if you're okay with trusting the small gear. At the crux moves about 12' up, only brassies or other small nuts are between you and the ground. A straight-sided BD #3 wire has saved my butt a few times. A few have pulled gear and hit the ground, myself included, thankfully the landing is flat and sandy.

Rack: (2 ea.) cams from #00 TCU - #0.75 camalot, (1) #1 camalot, and RPs, especially if taking the harder right branch for the upper section. A #2 camalot is nice for the left crack finish. Mar 13, 2009