Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 532 total · 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climb a bouldery start in a seam protectable with a large RP preventing groundfall. This start is the crux of the unnamed 5.9 crack that goes right. Step left below a small triangular roof. Turn this roof (crux) pulling on finger locks in a couple of pods in the seam and smeary nubs for feet (TCUs or small nuts). Continue up the crack in the shallow open book above (5.10, small nuts and TCUs).


This climb is route 16 in the
Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the route names/grades in anywhere so refer to the route descriptions here for corresponding number.)

It starts about 15' right of Rattlesnake Crack in a seam shared with Route 17 then busts left of that route.


Cams from TCUs to hands, especially #00 and #0 TCUs or equivalent tiny cams. 1 set nuts, including RPs.
2-bolt anchor.