Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 35.81856, -106.18779
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,801 total · 129/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.
Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.

Getting There Suggest change

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Old New Place Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Old New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Bee Sting
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Route 17
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
High Roof Left
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
High Roof Right
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Direct Start to Route 10
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 19
Route 10
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Tetherball
Trad, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Route 19
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
God Route (aka Mike's Route)
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Berserker
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
4-Star Arete
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Sinewave (aka S Crack)
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 4
Total Abstinence
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bee Sting
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Route 17
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
High Roof Left
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
High Roof Right
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Direct Start to Route 10
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Route 10
 19
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tetherball
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Route 19
 7
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
God Route (aka Mike's Route)
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Berserker
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Side…
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
4-Star Arete
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Sinewave (aka S Crack)
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Total Abstinence
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Old New Place »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments