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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 807 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A reachy start (could be crux for shorter climbers) directly under the obvious roof on very positive ledges and flakes takes you up to below the roof. Then, move right to the edge/arete (crux) on small ledges to blind holds around the edge to pass the roof. Easier climbing above takes one to the top.

Location

When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 6 on the Old New Place route topo photo.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams down low. Small nuts are nice to protect the moves right around the roof and then a bigger cam (#2 BD) or two above to the top. Bolt anchor at top to preserve the trees.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.10a
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.10a
Another fun, balancy variation on this climb is to start as for the Unknown 5.10a to its right (Route 7 in the topo, further right then the variation George mentioned) and move left onto the arete instead of making Route 7's strange step out right. Then follow "High Roof Right" to the top. This variation appeared to protect well with small nuts and cams, but I didn't lead it. Dec 15, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
An alternate start to this climb begins about 6' to the right of the usual start under the high roof; it's a flared corner to a finger crack to the easier cracks on the arete. It's about 5.11, and is safely leadable, but I haven't tried to lead it yet. Apr 13, 2009