Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,296 total · 18/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: May 7, 2022 - Los Alamos County Stage 3 (Full Closure) Fire Restrictions Details
Access Issue: May 7, 2022 - Los Alamos County Stage 3 (Full Closure) Fire Restrictions Details

Description

Rattlesnake Crack is one of the very best White Rock cracks, rated from 11a to 11c in different sources.

The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but good solid gear can be found before committing to it.

Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and crank through the insecure crux to a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieback up the steep finger crack to a stance on the prow. The crack above is mostly fingers with some thin hands sections.

A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is 5.12, with not much for pro, if any.

Location

Climb is obvious from a wonderful big flat rock at its base. You'll see the clean face with the left-trending undercling traverse. This is the next climb to the right of S Crack, the obvious S-shaped crack.

Protection

Nuts: 1 set, including RPs
Cams: 1 ea. from TCUs to #2 camalot, with doubles of #0.75 camalot and #0.5 camalot recommended.

2-bolt anchor.

It's not a great route for toproping, because falls at the crux leave the climber dangling and unable to reestablish on the rock.

Photos