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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,580 total, 21/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Rattlesnake Crack is one of the very best White Rock cracks, rated from 11a to 11c in different sources.

The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but good solid gear can be found before committing to it.

Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and crank through the insecure crux to a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieback up the steep finger crack to a stance on the prow. The crack above is mostly fingers with some thin hands sections.

A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is 5.12, with not much for pro, if any.

Location

Climb is obvious from a wonderful big flat rock at its base. You'll see the clean face with the left-trending undercling traverse. This is the next climb to the right of S Crack, the obvious S-shaped crack.

Protection

Nuts: 1 set, including RPs
Cams: 1 ea. from TCUs to #2 camalot, with doubles of #0.75 camalot and #0.5 camalot recommended.

2-bolt anchor.

It's not a great route for toproping, because falls at the crux leave the climber dangling and unable to reestablish on the rock.

Photos

jamie Hamilton
santa fe nm
jamie Hamilton   santa fe nm
The seam on the face to the left of this climb hosts a good 5.12 TR variation to the normal start. When combined with Gulf stream it makes for a more sustained climb. Mar 6, 2010
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
One of the coolest routes I've been on and a must do if at the Old New Place. Intriguing and challenging crux to a "thank god" hold; then a very fun crack from there on. Books I've seen rate this as "sandbagged 5.11b/c" for which I concur...with the sandbagged part.

One more thing: while it's true that when toproping this route it is difficult/impossible to get back on at the crux, one just needs to keep swinging and lower a couple feet to the large undercling. Granted, this doesn't allow for a complete hang-dog ascent because to move up you have to pull the moves - but that's why you're on it, right? Jun 6, 2008