Avg: 2.6 from 15 votes
Routes in Old New Place
|4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X|
|Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||996 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Oct 3, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionFollow the left leaning crack system just left of the high roof routes. Lieback at the start, to a hand crack section, which is protected with cams and can be jammed or liebacked. Then cruising up an offwidth section on a ramp that's easier than it looks. The crux is at the small triangular roof, which is bypassed on the left using face holds or a reach to jugs straight over it.
Protection is great the whole way, so this climb is one of the more popular leads at the ONP.
There is a direct start in the 5.11 range beginning 10' left of the normal start in a shallow dihedral.
The route's name is not in the guidebook and was provided courtesy of Scott B.
LocationThis climb is route 4 in the and Jemez Rock.
Just left of the high roof identify a left leaning hand crack.
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