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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 611 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This lightning-bolt shaped finger crack on a slightly overhanging clean face is another high quality crack at the ONP. When you reach the end of the crack, hand traverse left to the arete, and mantle.

To finish, most will continue up 5.8 finger and hand cracks with good horizontal ledges to the left (shared with Climb 17), but it may be possible to step right of the arete and follow another seam (as shown in guidebook and in
Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the route names/grades in anywhere so refer to the route descriptions here for corresponding number.) ).

Location

This climb is near the right side of the ONP. Find the obvious zigzagging finger crack, on a clean face just to the right of an obvious arete.
It is climb #19 in the
Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the route names/grades in anywhere so refer to the route descriptions here for corresponding number.)

Protection

Nuts & cams up to a #2 camalot, with doubles at finger crack sizes (#0.3 camalot and #0.4 camalot) highly recommended.
2-bolt anchor.

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