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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Mike Roybal, early 1970s
Page Views: 657 total, 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

"God Route" is really just a series of interconnected boulder problems between good rests, but what it lacks in continuousness it makes up through unique movement.

Escape the cave moving from left to right, with a boulder problem first crux. Have faith that the TCU in the horizontal crack above the lip protects the heelhook/mantle move. You can place other cams below and left of the roof. There is also a "direct start" moving left from the flakes to the right, which is much easier, like 5.9? (though the guidebook lists it as height-dependent 5.11, so maybe there's a 3rd option?)

Place more TCUs and/or small nuts to protect the 2nd crux, an overhanging lieback move or two to a thank-god flake. Fight the pump to get another cam in, and get another rest below a tough-looking offwidth.

The offwidth is easier than it appears. A #4 camalot fits near the bottom of it, or with a bigger cam (#5) you can place gear higher. Once you commit to putting your knee in the crack, you've got it.

Location

God Route begins in the back of the obvious cave behind the giant boulder at the left side of ONP.
It is climb #1 in the .

Protection

2 ea. TCUs or other tiny cams.
1 ea. cams of larger sizes up to a #2 camalot.
1 set nuts.
Either a #4 or #5 camalot or equivalent big cam is nice, but maybe not essential.

A double length runner around a column at the top makes for a good anchor. Supplement this with some of your own gear in cracks, or anchor off dying trees with lengths of static line.

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