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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Rick Smith, 2000? (1st probable lead- Jamie Hamilton, 2010?)
Page Views: 644 total, 6/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Dec 31, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This was the "last great problem" at the ONP until I figured out a sequence and then Rick beat me to the FA by about 3 minutes (to be fair, I got first shot at it and fell off, then managed it after he did it). Pretty much a 10 foot boulder problem with easier terrain above and below, but still a fun problem to throw yourself at on TR.

Location

The route climbs the blank-looking dihedral/seam just right of route #9 in the photo. The business occurs at about 20 feet, after which things ease off to about 5.10ish. If you're having trouble finding it, look for the overhanging, extremely improbably looking right-facing shallow dihedral.

Protection

There is essentially none for the crux, I have to believe that a fall would be fatal on lead.

Photos

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Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Nice! That's probably the real FA, then! Neither Rick or I was willing to trust the pro we could find - rattly RPs behind a big loose flake that was fitted into the dihedral - I'm amazed you got any pro in at all. It's possible that the big flake fell out, which might have revealed something worth placing gear in, of course. Mar 6, 2010
jamie Hamilton
santa fe nm
jamie Hamilton   santa fe nm
I lead this route recently. Two kbs lower the commitment from X to probable R although the upper kb (right in the middle of the crux) is dodgy and if it blew you might deck. I also rolled onto the over hanging face to the left of the normal finish to keep the route a little more sustained. Also I think the grade is a bit soft, I think it is more in the range of 12 to 12+. Great route and a really exciting lead. Mar 3, 2010