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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: maybe Jamie Hamilton 12/18/09 (1st lead)?, TRed earlier
Page Views: 495 total, 5/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb the shallow dihedral 5 feet left of Sin-Wave with technical stemming. Up, slightly left, then back right and over a bulge (crux), then left and up an easier thin crack to the top.

Escaping leftwards out of the dihedral and up is a bit easier.

Protection

TR [or lead with gear including small wires and rps]

Photos

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jamie Hamilton
santa fe nm
jamie Hamilton   santa fe nm
I led this route yesterday(12/18/09). It is a pretty serious lead and I would give it a protection rating of R. There are a couple of places where you do not want to fall (you might slam into the boulder at the base of the corner) and one of them happens to be the crux. The gear mostly consists of small wires and some suspect rps behind chock stones in a seam. I wonder if this was the FA? It is hard for me to believe that nobody has led this before, since it seems such a classic line. However my partner who has climbed in Los Alamos for 3 decades seemed to think it was. Dec 19, 2009