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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 949 total · 8/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Berserker is a wide roof crack at White Rock, and there aren't too many like this, so it's worth checking out, if you're into that sort of thing.

Lieback the clean thin-hands crack in the left-facing corner to a stance below a roof. This is one of the best liebacking corners in White Rock. The roof is offwidth-size, confusing, strenuous, and harder than it looks (but easier than it's nominally rated- 5.11c/d), and protects well with #4 and #5 camalots. After the roof, the climbing is much easier to the top if you stay right. Instead, step left and pull through a 2nd roof on hand cracks for full value.

Location

Berserker starts with the obvious left-facing lieback crack to a roof crack near the right end of the ONP.

Protection

Cams from #0.75 camalot to #5 camalot. I'd recommend a #5 if you have it, but it can protect okay with gear only up to a #4.
2-bolt anchor.

Photos

J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.11b
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.11b
The 2nd roof is more fun than the first though barely even 5.10 in difficulty. Altogether a superb line with great pro. Jun 28, 2012

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