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Routes in Old New Place

4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Berserker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 17 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 743 total, 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb blocks to a finger crack on a right-leaning ramp, place good pro and mantle onto a fin (crux). Follow the easy handcrack up to the obvious left-trending flake. Undercling/lieback out left on this flake to the top. (A popular toprope variation is to step left as soon as you can after the mantle and climb the crimpy face and avoid using the flake).

A Direct Start variation (#11 in the photo) reaches the pedestal/prow from the right side- it's also .10a with pro that's better than it looks from the ground.

Location

This climb is in the middle of the ONP, and is route 10 in
The big left trending undercling flake up high is obvious.

Protection

Cams from finger size to fist.
2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
The direct start to this route is chock full of fun moves and highly recommended.

The big block in the crack at the bottom of the huge flake looks completely detached from the wall on all sides and scares me, actually. It doesn't wiggle at all but it boggles my mind as to how it's still there. I suggest not placing pro around it and not using it for holds--it's not difficult to not use it. Mar 23, 2011