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Falling Bodies Direct (Mid Cliff Start)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in 03. Main Slab
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A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek/“Night Climb”) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bob & Ralph's Most Excellent Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Butterfingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Celestial Path (Mid-cliff start) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Falling Bodies - Right (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Falling Bodies Direct (Mid Cliff Start) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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First Knight Returns (1 pitch) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamma Ray (Mid-cliff start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Grey Ghost (1 pitch) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lost in Space (Mid-cliff start) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Middle of the Night (1 pitch) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Star Trek Slab's Left-Side Route (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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TSC Rockfall Photos T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a X |
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Unknown (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Unknown Traverse ( mid-cliff start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Woodnote Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 109 ft (33 m), Grade II |
| FA: | RH & RW Aug 14, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 547 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Aug 26, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Climb Pitches 1 & 2 of Bob & Ralph's Most Excellent Adventure (or Asteroid Belt and continue straight where that route bears left)
Falling Bodies Direct – Scramble up (one ‘tricky’ move) from the P2 anchor of B&RsMEA to the sandy ledge with the triple bolt anchor. There is a bolt on the back wall of the sandy ledge about 1/2 way to the left end that makes belaying on this ledge much safer.
From the left end of the sandy ledge, follow several bolts up the steep slab (crux...5.9-ish?) to reach a stance with a bolt. Then climb up past the thin arching crack (optional small wire nut placement), make a step right and up to connect with Falling Bodies-Right and the double bolt anchor on the top. 110 ft 5.9 (+/-)
Descent- From the double bolt anchor at the top, rap with a single 70m (but maybe not a single 60m) to the triple bolt anchor on the right end of the sandy ledge. From there, either rap 4 more raps with a single 70m (but NOT a single 60m) down the single-70m-rope rap line.
If using double 70m ropes, from the top rap 3 raps down the bolted anchor line of B&R'sMEA.
Old Route Further Left ? - The keen-of-eye might notice, about 25-30 ft left of FB-Direct an old piton and bolt at a small overlap on a sort of "staircase" bit of rock. Obviously an old route unreported in any guidebook. It looks like that route would go up to the large, right-facing flake/corner that ends at the furthest left section of the top of Cinema Gully, about 25-30 ft left of the top of the FB-Direct. If exploring this perks your interest, I'd take along some large cams (#2's, #'3's and maybe a #4 or two) for the final crack.
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