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Routes in 03. Main Slab
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A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek/“Night Climb”) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bob & Ralph's Most Excellent Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Butterfingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Celestial Path (Mid-cliff start) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Falling Bodies - Right (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Falling Bodies Direct (Mid Cliff Start) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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First Knight Returns (1 pitch) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamma Ray (Mid-cliff start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Grey Ghost (1 pitch) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lost in Space (Mid-cliff start) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Middle of the Night (1 pitch) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Star Trek Slab's Left-Side Route (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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TSC Rockfall Photos T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a X |
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Unknown (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Woodnote Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jon Sykes, Laura Sykes, & Scott Lovell June? July? 2020 |
| Page Views: | 503 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Aug 30, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This takes a line to the left of Hugo's Revisited and right of Cinema Gully.
Name come from the slippery bolts that seemed to slip out of the hand(s) of one of the FA leaders!
1) START on Hugo's, at the 3rds bolt (up about 75-100 ft) diverge from Hugo's by tranding up and left (same as for the Standard Route). There are three(3) tree/bush bunches: the right most is Hugo's, the left most (almost into Cinema Gully itself) is on Standard, you want to go to the small group of bushes/small tree(s) that is in-between these two larger bunches. 220 ft (70m rope) 5.6-5.7(?) Dbl bolt anchor on sandy ledge. Take care on sloping ledge there are still some lose rocks.
P2 – Climb the headwall above (3 Bolts, said to be 5.7+ / 5.8- or 5.7 A-0 at 2nd bolt) continue up on nice slab. Ignore a bolt off to the right (off route) but climb up a small “corner-ish”/ gully and step left to a dbl bolt anchor. 120 +/- ft, 5.7+ / 5.8-
P3 – Climb the slab to a double bolt anchor on another sandy ledge. 115 ft +/- 5.6 +/-
P4- Climb up on a slab and then right-ish into a big, left-facing corner (neither visible very well on the photo). At the top of the corner step left and up onto the “white slab”. Here the first ascenders had planned on climbing directly up the slab (now known as “5.9-ish scary”, which probably translates from “Sykes-in-ese” into 5.10!) but the result is a bolt placed too high and too far right. Nevertheless, Clip the bolt, and then step down and left to reach the left “Arete” of the slab. Up this for a few moves, then traverse back right and up to the double bolt anchor. 140 +/- ft 5.8 or so. If planning to continue onto the upper tier, you may want to continue up and right to a belay tree.
Descent: Rap the route
You can rap from Belay 3 to belay 1 with double 70m ropes, but not double 60m’s If you do this the best "approach" to the anchors of P1 may be to rap over the overhang and then walk back right to the bolts, rather than trying to tension-traverse rap directly to the bolts.
The rap from Belay 1 to the base MAY (?) need double 70m’s, If you only have 60’s then traverse to the Hugo’s tree ledge
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