Unknown (Mid-Cliff Start)

First, this is NOT the Cormier route "Diversions".  Paul's two "signature" aluminum hanger-ed bolts on Diversions are visible from this climb about 25-35 ft to the left. ( The upper bolt is difficult to spot.) 

Second, speaking with Todd Swain about his ice route "Freeze Frame", he didn't remember placing any bolts except the bolt at the end of P1, down low on that climb.  ( Freeze Frame starts in a corner up and left of the start of Cinema Gully and left of the start of Asteroid Belt. An attempt to locate the start in the late fall by this submitter was not successful.) Furthermore, in all likelihood the slab this "unknown" goes up would be covered in ice during winter, as it is clearly wet a good part of the year.  

We first spotted the piton and old 1/4 inch bolt while working on Falling Bodies Direct.  A few weeks later one of us TR’d the climb from the Cinema rap tree on the Big Tree Ledge. ( A MOST interesting exercise in placing directional protection on rappel !)  

In a second “ exploratory” in Oct 2021 RW led up the well protected bottom of Falling Bodies Direct and then moved left into the corner, which he climbed with only a #3 Camelot. On that day Jon Sykes was climbing a nearby climb and called over that he had climbed the route but had finished by going left at the top of the corner and climbing the steep upper headwall, whereupon he had a “ come to Jesus moment”.  Run out, no pro, and hard moves while looking “ at the face of God!” ….act accordingly !

So….who placed the ancient pro?  When?  There’s a Lost Arrow pin which looks ( to this climber who cut his teeth using pitons for 7 years before nuts came in) fairly solid even if not driven totally into the crack. ("Hero" loop it ! )  A few feet above, and a bit left, is a 1/4 bolt. Up a foot or so, and a bit right of the 1/4 inch bolt is the remnant of an even older bolt without hanger.  It seems inconceivable that the same party put in all 3 pieces,( why would one party put in 2 bolts so close together? …the move isn’t that hard)  so it would seem at least two parties, probably 3, worked on this route sometime in the past…probably pre-1980. 

Disclaimer- Not being of mind to run out on an ancient 1/4 bolt placed in a water course, and not having large cams, we top-roped this pitch, although RW did lead the corner pitch, arriving at the base of the corner by climbing the protected Falling Bodies Direct and moving left.

START - on the left end of the sandy/grassy belay ledge used for Falling Bodies and FB-Direct.  Might as well clip the first bolt on Falling Bodies Direct as you pass by going left. Now climb up and left, along sort of ramp-like steps to the piton and bolt in a streak of brown rock.  I climbed up pretty much directly above the piton, onto a clean face above, which was surprisingly easy ( 5.6 - 5.7 +/- )  to a ledge with bush(es).  Continue (run out) to the base of the large flake/corner. Large Cam ( #4, although a #3 will fit but is almost tipped out) .

At the top of the corner make an awkward and difficult-to-rate move out right ( 5.7 - 5.8??  #5 cam? ) to the face.  (After a few feet you can step back left to the corner to place directional pro for your partner.) Continue up and right on easier rock. 

Belay choices aren’t pretty. Belaying from the B&R Adventure anchor exposes the follower to a potential horrible swing, while going up to the Cinema Gully tree involves the rope running over an intervening buttress and through trees. Good luck Mr. Phelps!

On the big slab left of the ice climb Cinema Gully.  About 15-20 ft left of Left of Falling Bodies Direct

Starts on same sandy belay ledge as Falling Bodies & FB Direct. This ledge is 20-25 ft up and left of the top pitch of B&R’s Great Adventure, and about 110 ft below the Big Tree Ledge. There's a triple-bolt rap anchor (2 old, 1 new) and a new bolt on the sandy ledge itself.

Screamers for old bolts, large Cams ( #3, 4 and maybe 5 ) for corner of flake.