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Falling Bodies Direct (Mid Cliff Start)

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 109 ft (33 m), Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: RH & RW Aug 14, 2020
New Hampshire > WM: Crawford Notch > Mt Willard > 03. Main Slab

Description

Climb Pitches 1 & 2 of Bob & Ralph's Most Excellent Adventure (or Asteroid Belt and continue straight where that route bears left)

Falling Bodies Direct – Scramble up (one ‘tricky’ move) from the P2 anchor of B&RsMEA to the sandy ledge with the triple bolt anchor. There is a bolt on the back wall of the sandy ledge about 1/2 way to the left end that makes belaying on this ledge much safer.

From the left end of the sandy ledge, follow several bolts up the steep slab (crux...5.9-ish?) to reach a stance with a bolt. Then climb up past the thin arching crack (optional small wire nut placement), make a step right and up to connect with Falling Bodies-Right and the double bolt anchor on the top. 110 ft  5.9 (+/-)

Descent-  From the double bolt anchor at the top, rap with a single 70m (but maybe not a single 60m) to the triple bolt anchor on the right end of the sandy ledge. From there, either rap 4 more raps with a single 70m (but NOT a single 60m) down the single-70m-rope rap line.

If using double 70m ropes, from the top rap 3 raps down the bolted anchor line of B&R'sMEA.

Old Route Further Left ? - The keen-of-eye might notice, about 25-30 ft left of FB-Direct an old piton and bolt at a small overlap on a sort of "staircase" bit of rock. Obviously an old route unreported in any guidebook. It looks like that route would go up to the large, right-facing flake/corner that ends at the furthest left section of the top of Cinema Gully, about 25-30 ft left of the top of the FB-Direct. If exploring this perks your interest, I'd take along some large cams (#2's, #'3's and maybe a #4 or two) for the final crack.  

Location

Starts from the left end of the sandy ledge 20-25 ft up and left from the P2 anchor of B&RsMEA.

Protection

8-9 quick draws, small wire nut optional, small cams optional

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

RH at Bolt #2 on FA of Falling Bodies Direct  (photo by RW, posted with permission)
[Hide Photo] RH at Bolt #2 on FA of Falling Bodies Direct (photo by RW, posted with permission)
Falling Bodies Direct is the Yellow line  (Orange is "FB Right", and Red is P3 of "B&RsMEA") the Blue is the 2015 attempt and X is approx. where the fall occured.)
[Hide Photo] Falling Bodies Direct is the Yellow line (Orange is "FB Right", and Red is P3 of "B&RsMEA") the Blue is the 2015 attempt and X is approx. where the fall occured.)
RH near the top on the FA of Falling Bodies Direct Note the route follows the smaller (and higher) arching crack (RW photo, posted with permission)
[Hide Photo] RH near the top on the FA of Falling Bodies Direct Note the route follows the smaller (and higher) arching crack (RW photo, posted with permission)