All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Crawford Notch > Mt Willard > 03. Main Slab

Across the Universe

Name: Across the Universe
Rating: 3.1

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in 03. Main Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek/“Night Climb”) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Bob & Ralph's Most Excellent Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Butterfingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Celestial Path (Mid-cliff start) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Falling Bodies - Right (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Falling Bodies Direct (Mid Cliff Start) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	First Knight Returns (1 pitch) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gamma Ray (Mid-cliff start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Grey Ghost (1 pitch) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lost in Space (Mid-cliff start) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Middle of the Night (1 pitch) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
	Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Star Trek Slab's Left-Side Route (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	TSC Rockfall Photos T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a X
	Unknown (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Unknown Traverse ( mid-cliff start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Woodnote Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	44.2027, -71.40884
FA:	Todd Swain, Mike Cody & Dick Peterson on 8/30/1982 after five previous drilling trips.
Page Views:	7,036 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Casey Bald on Aug 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Rockfall There was a pretty major rockfall ( VERY ROUGHLY a 15ft x 12 ft x 4 ft thick slab, about 50 tons) that occurred sometime the spring of 2023. Anyone doing ATU or TSC will notice the 18 inch diameter oak trees broken like matchsticks. Fortunately, climbed have reported that the protection bolts and the climbing on these two routes were unaffected. Be Careful Out There ! R Hall Admin 7/4/23 See photos posted to the "climb" TSC Rockfall"

Across the Universe is located uphill from the obvious toe of the Mt. Willard slabs. There are two possible starts:

1a. Walk uphill from the toe, and start below a flaring corner/groove moving past two bolts (5.9) slabbing up 20 feet (unprotected) gaining another bolt then moving farther right passing two more bolts (5.8) to a two bolt anchor below the headwall at a nice ledge.

1b. Walk farther up hill from the previous variation gaining higher ground. Head upwards over an easy headwall joining the previous pitch at its forth bolt, move up passing the previous pitch's anchor, linking up the crux second pitch.

2. From the two bolt anchor move up and right clipping a fixed pin at the base of the head wall, climb straight up on vertical rock and clip a bolt. From some good holds do some cool trickery to move past the bolt to a jug. A pin used to exist here but a cam works fine. Step left and continue straight up passing a nice layback flake belaying at a two bolt anchor in a water hole.

3. Run it out straight up getting occasional gear (5.5) aiming for a ~~lone~~ ~~bolt~~ pair of bolts even with a tree ledge on your right. Clip one with a long runner and make an easy traverse towards the tree ledge to your right. It's possible to get another placement along the traverse if you wish. Belay at a two bolt rap anchor from a comfy stance.

4. The Milky Way Pitch. Awesome traditionally placed bolts on 5.9 slab, follow bolts and one fixed pin to a comfortable two bolt rap anchor.

Most folks rap from here. You'll need two ropes to get back to the rap anchor at the start of the 4th pitch - even a 70m single comes up short. Double rope rap to the start of the 3rd pitch and then a final double rope rap to the ground.

Alternatively, run it out on 5.4 up to the tree ledge and climb any number of variations to the top of Mount Willard. See: 04. Upper Face / Upper Tier