Across the Universe
Avg: 3 from 29 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Todd Swain, Mike Cody & Dick Peterson on 8/30/1982 after five previous drilling trips.|
|Page Views:||4,366 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Casey Bald on Aug 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionAcross the Universe is located uphill from the obvious toe of the Mt. Willard slabs. There are two possible starts:
1a. Walk uphill from the toe, and start below a flaring corner/groove moving past two bolts (5.9) slabbing up 20 feet (unprotected) to a second bolt then moving farther right passing two more bolts (5.8) to a two bolt anchor below the headwall at a nice ledge.
1b. Walk farther up hill from the previous variation gaining higher ground. Head upwards over an easy headwall joining the previous pitch at its forth bolt, move up passing the previous pitch's anchor, linking up the crux second pitch.
2. From the two bolt anchor move up and right clipping a fixed pin at the base of the head wall, climb straight up on vertical rock and clip a bolt. From some good holds do some cool trickery to move past the bolt to a jug and a pin in a fare (I would back this pin up as it is only held in the rock by a large nubbin) then launch straight up passing a nice layback flake belaying at a two bolt anchor in a water hole.
3. Run it out straight up getting occasional gear (5.5) aiming for a lone bolt even with a tree ledge on your right, clip the bolt with a long runner and make a easy traverse over to the tree ledge and belay at a two bolt anchor.
4. The Milky Way Pitch. Awesome traditionally placed bolts on 5.9 slab, follow bolts and one fixed pin to a two bolt anchor.
5. Most folks rap from here (2 ropes [even a 70m single comes up short] to the dbl bolt anchor right of the tree, then a 2 rope rap to the ground)...or run it out on 5.4 up to the tree ledge and climb any number of variations to the top of Mount Willard. (See "Upper Face" AREA)