Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
Routes in Main Slab
|A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek, and Gamma Ray) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Celestial Path T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Gamma Ray T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Lost in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X|
|Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Kurt Winkler & Peter Gamache|
|Page Views:||1,330 total, 37/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 30, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionNOTE: This climb seemed to have gotten the name "Mystery Route", although I originally posted it as Time Traveler Revisited and may still show on some photos with that name. This slightly revised introduction was posted 4/27/16 after discussions with Kurt.
HISTORY: Taking a line to the right of Hugo's Horror, and generally left of Time Traveler, Kurt Winkler and Peter Gamache worked out this great line that carefully avoids the routes: Sputnik, 6000-Salad Bowls, and Time Traveler. After leading the line without bolts, the bolts were placed so others could enjoy the route.
Not knowing the name of this line, but after several comments as to "What's that great bolted route right of Hugo's?" I put in the route and called it "Time Traveler Revisited". I hope Kurt forgives me.
Time-Space Continuum 5.8 / 5.5-5.6 PG-13
Description: There is a little of everything on this climb: bomb-proof double bolt anchors at the end of each pitch, thought-provoking moves which turn out to not really be THAT difficult, clean slab, steeper headwall climbing, a bit of route finding on the last pitch, alternate ways to do moves, and sufficient bolts and trad-gear to keep the safety rating in the G to PG range.
A Gunks climber I know likened the route to a combination of the Gunks climbs Mainline (Near Traps) and Arrow.
One caveat: The first pitch crux may be more difficult, and more R-ish for shorter climbers.
Approach: Attain the short gulley that is directly below the lowest toe of Mt. Willards slab by the method of your choice. (This is the start of the ice route Cinema Gulley.) Most climbers walk the railroad tracks, although the hike up from Rt 302 is probably faster, plus you get to visit Hatties Garden (the garden, not the climb of the same name). Up the short, boulder gully, which is rapidly becoming vegetated, to the toe of the main slab (Here, you are at the start of the routes Hugos Horror and Standard.)
Scramble uphill to the right along the base of the cliff for 50-75 ft past a large oak tree growing about 2 ft from the cliff; then down 25 ft to a flat area at the base of slabby rock with a large overlap about 130 ft above. The climb Woodnote Arete (5.7R, K. Winkler & P. Davis Sept 1986) starts back up near the large oak tree. Time-Space (photo) starts in the flat area, and Across the Universe (5.10a T. Swain, M. Cody, & D. Peterson, Aug 1982) starts to your right, 15-20 ft above this slabs toe. [Photo "Base Area of Across the Universe and Time-Space Continuum" posted in the "Across the Universe" climb.]
P1. START about 20 ft LEFT of this slabs toe near a 3 ft long diagonal slash, or shallow crack. Climb 20 ft to a bolt just left of a right-facing bulge/corner. Up the corner for one move, then step LEFT and up to the 2nd bolt. Up right (gear) then up a shallow right-facing corner for a few moves* and step LEFT onto the clean face with 2 bolts; directly up this (5.6-5.7 slab) to the overlap. (Gear is a small cam and/or nut at the base) Up the overlap** to the bolt (crux), then move right and up to the 2-bolt anchor. 180 ft 5.8
[*Climbing onto the slab from directly below the first bolt is more difficult. ]
[ ** Shorter climbers usually climb up on rock left of, and below the bolt, taller climbers usually can reach the bolt from a line below and slightly to the right of it.]
P2. Diagonal LEFT past 2 bolts and up to the clean, white slab. Gear fits in a flake, then up the slab past 2 bolts (5.6-5.7) to the steeper wall above and 2 more bolts to the 2-bolt anchor. 190 ft 5.6-5.7 You might see the ¼ bolts of the original Time Traveler on the slab to your right.
P3. Directly up past bolts and possible gear placement(s) to a 2-bolt anchor. 115 ft 5.5 5.6
P4. Directly up for 80-100 ft past 4 bolts and possible gear; then move up on a rising RIGHT-DIAGONAL ramp (easy) to a bolt on a clean, brown slab. [Alternate 1] Directly up past the bolt ( 5.8) or, alternately, much easier on the right, then step back left. Now, continue up the face with 2 hidden* pitons for protection to a mantle (5.7) at a final bolt ( Or, easier a few feet to the left of the bolt.) Easily up the final few feet to the 2-bolt anchor. 180 ft 5.8 / 5.5-5.6 PG-R .
- The pitons are both driven down behind horizontal flakes/small ledges and should be threaded with wire nuts, or cord, to prevent possible breakage of carabineers over the rock.
Alternate 1: Instead of taking the rising diagonal to the right (and the bolt), one can also continue directly up on a series of flakes and corners (gear) and then move right back to the flakes/small ledges with the fixed pitons and the final bolt.
Descend via four (4) rappels with double 60 meter (200 ft) ropes. It is possible to use a 60M and a 50M, but the last two raps really "stretch" the 50M.
One way to the tree ledge and the upper slabs is to move a few feet right, then up some brushed ( 2015) footholds to the bushes and trees on the right. Then a half-pitch of "Class 3.9" leaves and bushes gets one to the path along the upper tier. WATCH for lose rocks just laying on the leaves.