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Routes in Main Slab

A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek, and Gamma Ray) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Celestial Path T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Gamma Ray T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kurt Winkler & Peter Gamache
Page Views: 1,330 total, 37/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 30, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

NOTE: This climb seemed to have gotten the name "Mystery Route", although I originally posted it as Time Traveler Revisited and may still show on some photos with that name. This slightly revised introduction was posted 4/27/16 after discussions with Kurt.

HISTORY: Taking a line to the right of Hugo's Horror, and generally left of Time Traveler, Kurt Winkler and Peter Gamache worked out this great line that carefully avoids the routes: Sputnik, 6000-Salad Bowls, and Time Traveler. After leading the line without bolts, the bolts were placed so others could enjoy the route.

Not knowing the name of this line, but after several comments as to "What's that great bolted route right of Hugo's?" I put in the route and called it "Time Traveler Revisited". I hope Kurt forgives me.


Time-Space Continuum 5.8 / 5.5-5.6 PG-13

Description: There is a little of everything on this climb: bomb-proof double bolt anchors at the end of each pitch, thought-provoking moves which turn out to not really be THAT difficult, clean slab, steeper “headwall climbing”, a bit of route finding on the last pitch, alternate ways to do moves, and sufficient bolts and trad-gear to keep the safety rating in the “G to PG” range.

A “Gunks” climber I know likened the route to “a combination of the Gunks climbs Mainline (Near Traps) and Arrow.
One caveat: The first pitch crux may be more difficult, and more “R-ish” for shorter climbers.

Approach: Attain the short gulley that is directly below the lowest toe of Mt. Willard’s slab by the method of your choice. (This is the start of the ice route “Cinema Gulley”.) Most climbers walk the railroad tracks, although the hike up from Rt 302 is probably faster, plus you get to visit Hattie’s Garden (the garden, not the climb of the same name). Up the short, boulder gully, which is rapidly becoming vegetated, to the toe of the main slab (Here, you are at the start of the routes Hugo’s Horror and Standard.)
Scramble uphill to the right along the base of the cliff for 50-75 ft past a large oak tree growing about 2 ft from the cliff; then down 25 ft to a flat area at the base of slabby rock with a large overlap about 130 ft above. The climb Woodnote Arete (5.7R, K. Winkler & P. Davis Sept 1986) starts back up near the large oak tree. Time-Space (photo) starts in the flat area, and Across the Universe (5.10a T. Swain, M. Cody, & D. Peterson, Aug 1982) starts to your right, 15-20 ft above this slab’s “toe”. [Photo "Base Area of Across the Universe and Time-Space Continuum" posted in the "Across the Universe" climb.]

P1. START about 20 ft LEFT of this slab’s “toe” near a 3 ft long diagonal “slash”, or shallow crack. Climb 20 ft to a bolt just left of a right-facing bulge/corner. Up the corner for one move, then step LEFT and up to the 2nd bolt. Up right (gear) then up a shallow right-facing corner for a few moves* and step LEFT onto the clean face with 2 bolts; directly up this (5.6-5.7 slab) to the overlap. (Gear is a small cam and/or nut at the base) Up the overlap** to the bolt (crux), then move right and up to the 2-bolt anchor. 180 ft 5.8
[*Climbing onto the slab from directly below the first bolt is more difficult. ]
[ ** Shorter climbers usually climb up on rock left of, and below the bolt, taller climbers usually can reach the bolt from a line below and slightly to the right of it.]

P2. Diagonal LEFT past 2 bolts and up to the clean, white slab. Gear fits in a flake, then up the slab past 2 bolts (5.6-5.7) to the steeper wall above and 2 more bolts to the 2-bolt anchor. 190 ft 5.6-5.7 You might see the ¼” bolts of the original Time Traveler on the slab to your right.

P3. Directly up past bolts and possible gear placement(s) to a 2-bolt anchor. 115 ft 5.5 – 5.6

P4. Directly up for 80-100 ft past 4 bolts and possible gear; then move up on a rising RIGHT-DIAGONAL “ramp” (easy) to a bolt on a clean, brown slab. [Alternate 1] Directly up past the bolt ( 5.8) or, alternately, much easier on the right, then step back left. Now, continue up the face with 2 hidden* pitons for protection to a mantle (5.7) at a final bolt ( Or, easier a few feet to the left of the bolt.) Easily up the final few feet to the 2-bolt anchor. 180 ft 5.8 / 5.5-5.6 PG-R .
  • The pitons are both driven down behind horizontal flakes/small ledges and should be threaded with wire nuts, or cord, to prevent possible breakage of carabineers over the rock.

Alternate 1: Instead of taking the rising diagonal to the right (and the bolt), one can also continue directly up on a series of flakes and corners (gear) and then move right back to the flakes/small ledges with the fixed pitons and the final bolt.

Descend via four (4) rappels with double 60 meter (200 ft) ropes. It is possible to use a 60M and a 50M, but the last two raps really "stretch" the 50M.

One way to the tree ledge and the upper slabs is to move a few feet right, then up some brushed ( 2015) footholds to the bushes and trees on the right. Then a half-pitch of "Class 3.9" leaves and bushes gets one to the path along the upper tier. WATCH for lose rocks just laying on the leaves.

Protection

Std Rack
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Good question! As GUNKSWEST noted, much of the route was Ursa Minor whose FAer's I presume are in Webster 2nd Ed.
That being said, someone bolted the "more direct" "variation" that I chose to call, for lack of anything better, "Time Traveler Revisted", since to me it seemed to start very close to Time Traveler and to climb very close to Time Traveler/Ursa Minor. Apr 10, 2016
Who is the first ascentist of Time Traveller Revisited? Apr 10, 2016
Gunkswest   CA
This route was originally called Ursa Minor (see first [1982] Webster guidebook page 199).

Much of the pitch above the overlap (P3) was originally climbed by Todd Swain & Mike Cody in 1980 as part of explorations for what ultimately became Ursa Major. Due to approaching darkness, Swain placed a single 1/4" bolt at the top of this pitch and rappelled off the bolt with plans to come back later and add another bolt to the belay. A week or two later, Ed Webster & Sue Patenaude paid a visit to the cliff and climbed what is now recognized as Time Traveler. Webster got to the single bolt at the top of P3 that Swain had rappelled from and gave it a tug. The bolt snapped off, leaving Webster holding the hanger and sling!!!! Similar instances occurred on Ursa Major (Swain) and Revolt of the Dike Brigade (Choe Brooks [from the UK]). A bad batch of 1/4" bolts found its way to the valley in 1980...

Time Traveler/Ursa Minor P4 variation: From the top of P3, diagonal up and left to bushes, then climb poor rock to the tree ledge (5.5 X). This pitch (FA Todd Swain & Dick Peterson 1980) and much of P3 were part of the original explorations for what became Ursa Major.

See first [1982] Webster guidebook page 200). Nov 9, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
If you're 6 ft or taller, with a 'normal' ape-index, there's a "Thank God Jug" high on the right that makes the move to the bolt about 5.7; if you're shorter the moves more to the left are probably 5.8 to the bolt. Aug 7, 2015
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
I thought the first pitch was a solid 5.8 and not that obvious. Lots of fun though! May 26, 2015
Thanks to Robert Hall for clarifying this route. It's a good write-up. I did this route last summer. At the time we were calling it "Mystery Route" because essentially it had no name, but there was a guide out there (Conrad Yager) who told me that's the name.

The route is fun. It's very well-protected; you barely need gear beyond quick draws. To me, it was barely 5.7. The only reason it's 5.7 is because of the first pitch. The rest of cool, casual 5.6 country. Mar 19, 2015