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Routes in Main Slab

A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek, and Gamma Ray) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Celestial Path T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Gamma Ray T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: mike lee
Page Views: 2,716 total, 35/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Jul 24, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Hugo's is a new take on an older nebulous line that was originally done by Hugo Stadmuller. Locate the prominent toe of rock that falls just shy of the rr tracks and hike up hill, at the toe of the cliff you will see the wet streak that is the winter route cinema gully, walk climbers right about 25 feet uphill until you see a bolt on a slab.
[Alternately, if it's dry, start at the very toe of the cliff and work up the gully a bit before stepping right onto the slab below the first bolt [photo];....or just clip the first bolt with a long runner and continue up the gully for the easiest start.]

1. climb a very easy slab to a tree ledge passing a couple bolts low on the route. 180 ft 5.3-5.4 [Admin. NOTE: The easier climbing is in the slightly broken gully to the left of the slab with bolts. Directly up past the bolts on the arete of the clean slab is more difficult; about 5.6-5.7 give-or-take. R. Hall]

2. behind the tree ledge there is a small but short head wall, climb this on gear and meander your way up the slab above to a 2-bolt anchor. 160 ft 5.5

3. [photos] follow a slab to some steeper overlaps and shallow corners picking the path of cleanest rock and following bolts and the occasional gear placement. Crux is about 1/2 up this pitch. 160 ft 5.6 [beta- don't waste time looking for gear pro at the crux, there isn't any.]

4. climb steeper rock again following bolts to a couple tricky but well protected moves to the top of the lower tier. 160 ft 5.5-5.6

DESCENT- Rap the route with two 60M ropes. It is possible to JUST make it with a 60M and a 50M "pull down", but you'll have to drop straight down/rappeller's right-ish on the last rap towards the base of Time Traveler.

One way to the tree ledge and the upper slabs is to traverse right, clip one of the bolts of the top anchor for "Time Traveler Revisited", continue right and then up some brushed ( 2015) footholds to the bushes and trees on the right. Then a half-pitch of "Class 3.9" leaves and bushes gets one to the path along the upper tier. WATCH for lose rocks just laying on the leaves!

Protection

This route is a fine example of the term "mixed" there are bolts just when you need them and gear in any spot that it could be placed naturally.
There are two bolt anchors at all the pitches except for the first pitch (tree ledge with slings).
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 PG13
Jon,
Perhaps "GunksWest" referred to 400 ft of vertical, while others refer to feet climbed"???

As you point out, the routes on this main slab are all about the same length...i.e. about 4 or 5 pitches in length. Jun 20, 2017
Hugo's Horror Revisited is 800 feet.And how can Ursa Major be 400 feet if it goes to the top of the lower wall when all other routes here are 700 feet? A bit misleading and confusing for first timers to Mt.Willard.Just thought I would point this out for safety's sake. Apr 10, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 PG13
Ron may be correct about the crux in the first 20-30 ft if you climb the slab directly over the bolts. I've added a NOTE to P1. Jun 1, 2015
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
Am I the only one who thinks the moves to the first bolt on the first pitch are very scary and committing until you finally reach it? By far the crux (to me) of the whole route. Or am I missing something? May 23, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
i like burlaps protection description "mixed" kinda says it all. May 13, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 PG13
I did this route a couple of times, the 2nd time we took a 50m 8mm "pull down" and this did work....but only with a foot or two to spare on one or two of the raps, so I think leading it with a 50m is out of the question. I think the rating was originally "5.5 - 5.6" and I would say "5.6 - 5.7" is more like it, especially because the crux (at least what I thought was the crux, on the 3rd pitch) is rather run-out, with the bolt 15-20 feet below you. Perhaps another bolt should be added here? Otherwise, a very nice route, fun climb. Too bad the rock from the top dbl bolt anchors* to the Big Tree Ledge is pretty mossy.

[ * Admin. NOTE: In 2015 some cleaning was done from here to the "Time-Space Continuum" belay (about 25 ft right), and then on up to the start of the Big Tree Ledge, so getting there isn't too bad, especially if dry.] May 13, 2014
Bob A  
I did this route yesterday 11-12-12.
Fun little adventure.

To echo what Jeremy said:
I would bring a small rack to #1 bd (we only used up to a .75).You will need two ropes to get off(4 double rope raps).
I am not sure but would almost bet that 50 meter ropes will NOT get you to the belays (maybe the first?).All pitches seem to be around 180 ft or so.

I did this route again yesterday 6-21-14. You will need 60 meter ropes for all pitches. Nov 13, 2012
Jeremy A   NH
Hey there Chris, I used a standard rack. Mostly bolted pitches(Not sport by any means)/bolt anchors. I did not carry any large gear. Up to a #2 BD. Most parties rap w/ 2 ropes (60m). Also to not spit to much beta.."Meander" is the key word for this route. Enjoy. May 16, 2012
Chris Bartram
Boone , NC
Chris Bartram   Boone , NC
what gear do you need for this climb Standard rack? Decent options? Apr 24, 2012
can this routre be done with a 50 meter rope?? Jul 29, 2011