Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Todd Swain, roped solo June 10, 1982
Page Views: 201 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Dec 6, 2014 with updates from Gunkswest
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A slab climb left of Standard. Todd's rating is a bit "old school" 5.6. and the protection is a bit marginal above P1. [5.7 PG-13/R ??] The bold text is the description, essentially, from Webster's 2nd Ed. Italic is our description.

START-Left of the "toe" (and left of the start of Standard).
In Oct 2015 we followed the base up and left through bushes and started about 30-35 ft left of the "toe", at the left end of the 6-8 ft overlap, and where the base drops down a few feet to go around sort of a "corner".

P1 - 200 +/- feet to the tree ledge. 5.3 We climbed up and stayed generally to the right where flakes and cracks provided more-than-expected chances for gear placements, especially if you have small wired nuts. 200ft 5.3-5.4 PG-13

P2 - Over the headwall on steep flakes, then diagonal left to a birch tree (still there??) belay. 50 ft 5.6
The flakes on the "headwall" allowed for gear (med. cams) but we found the slab immediately above more difficult than expected. (5.6+/5.7 PG-13/R) and there were also some thin moves on marginal gear above that. We went up to a tree island. 100-115 ft (NOT "50 ft") 5.6+/5.7 PG-13/R) Maybe Todd's "birch tree belay" at 50ft is gone.

P3 - Angle left on grassy ledges to the large tree ledge. 200 +/- feet 5.4 (Looking at the cliff, I'd guess it would be more like 300 ft of climbing. )

Here we sort of goofed! Lured on by the clean slabs above we continued on up instead of heading left on "grassy ledges".
Our P3- About 6-8 ft left of the belay tree we moved up the short, steeper wall and gained the slab, crossed it diagonally to the right (pro in a crack not seen from below) to a streak of white rock. Up this to the bushes, then back left and up an easy slab to a 4-5" diameter oak in gravel in a short right-facing corner. The small oak has double trunks and rap sling(s). 115ft 5.6
There is a double bolt anchor with "tat" about 10-15 ft above the oak; however, the bolts are not stainless and are rusty. This anchor is believed to be used mostly in winter, it is 60m below a rap station on a large tree on the Big Tree Ledge.

P4 - Our P4 was supposed to go up (past the dbl bolts) to the Big Tree Ledge. Lured on by the belief that at least one of the "5.4 - 5.6" variants of the Standard Route MUST climb this section of rock was, shall we say, a mistake.

If you make it to the Big Tree Ledge, it is more of a "hike" than you might think up, and then diagonal-up right to get to most of the "upper tier" climbs.
To get to the top of Hugo's and/or Time Traveler Revisited, go up, diagonal right, then down

Descent - IF you do make it to the Big Tree Ledge, there's a tree on the left with a rap ring. (Probably mostly used in winter. Cinema gully ends here.) Rap with two 60m ropes back down to the belay at the dbl bolt or slightly lower small oak. Then another 2 x 60m makes it FROM THE OAK to the tree ledge at end of P1. (Not 100% sure 2 x 60m from the dbl bolt would make it, but would think they would since the bolts obviously pre-date routine use of 70m ropes.) Then a final 2 x 60m rap to the ground, although a single 70m might make it.


Std Rack, wire brush perhaps would be useful.