Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Pinnacle Peak
|
28th Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Angels On My Mind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Baby Woolsey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
BeeGee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
Beer Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Beezlebub T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Birthday Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Brown Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 |
|
|
Chug A Lug T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Chutes and Ladders T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Death Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Deep Throat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Deliverance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Dried Oatmeal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Dungeons and Dragons (AKA Burnt Toast) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Ezy Rider T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Fear of Crying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Fear of Flying T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Fine Line A2 |
|
|
Flight 5.11 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Flight 5.11 Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Free Bear Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Garber's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Give Me an Idea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Good Vibrations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Hades T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Hot Richard, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Just Standing Around S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Lesson in Discipline T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Lost Nuts T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Lucky Number 7, aka Unknown, left of Palo Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Name It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Never Never Land T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Parallax View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Pecker Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Peg Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Powder Puff T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rastaman Vibration T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Rossetti Rose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Shalaylay Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sidewinder T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Silhouette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
South Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Thee Ole Four-Three T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Tongue of Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
Unknown T,TR A3 R |
|
|
Vanishing Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Voluptuous Ham(ster) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Walk Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 33.72743, -111.86499 |
| FA: | FA Peter Noebles, Dana Hollister 1977 (5.7 A.3), FFA Stan Mish |
| Page Views: | 1,743 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Will Wright on Dec 6, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Exiled to the shadows of the northwest side of Pinnacle Peak, guarded by a Cerebrus of bees, Beelzebub sits alone atop a crumbly scramble. The next step after you have been to Hades (10b/c), when I first found this climb I was puzzled by its relative obscurity, as it is easily one of the most aesthetic lines in the city often catching the eye and amazement of many hikers who dwell at the terminus of the Pinnacle trail.
Upon the first attempt, I quickly realized why it is not more popular; sharp, crumbly flakes line the inside of the offwidth, inflicting severe discomfort to all but the most masochistic ascentionists. I'm not sure who, if anyone, did the FA of this one (maybe JA or JW?), but it had certainly been a while since an attempt, as I knocked off at least several hundreds pounds of loose and progress-impeding rock during initial attempts and subsequent cleanings.
As it stands, most of the loose bits have been exfoliated off, and the climb goes clean on a modest rack. The old bolt near the crux, while worthless as protection, may assist you in keeping the rope out of the crack during a technical switch. It would be best to remove it and place a new anchor at the base of the climb for the belayer to clip into.
The moves surmounting the roof are quite memorable, and unless the rock continues to deteriorate, this should be one of the top 5 climbs in the Phoenix area.
Location
The best approach is to go up to the main, shady Pinnacle Peak alcove on the north side, then continue following the cliff line to the right. This trail should be very easy to find and follow, if not you are too low and need to stay closer to the cliff. As you curve around west the trail worsens as you reach the base of the route. You will have to scramble up some crumbly boulders just below the climb to reach it.
I assume the name also serves as a pun to the seasonal bees.
2 Comments