Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,614 total · 18/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

The climb to the left of fear of flying. This is a demanding route with tedious footwork and very thin face moves. The start of this climb is 11a and moves up on small arete. From there climb past 3 bolts i beleive and then work your way right to a crack where you can then put in a orange alien or a .4 BD camalot. Climb up past more bolts to small roof, last 3 bolts are cruxy.

Location

Start at 2 eyebolts at the bottom of south crack but up from the gulley. Once at the top of climb, for decent you have a few options. Climb the 3rd class to the summit, rope up though. Either rappel off the back or down south crack. There is another place to rappel halfway down south crack, this helps so that you dont get your ropes stuck.

Protection

2 good belay bolts at the bottom of south crack, bolts, one small piece. Top has one eye bolt and 2 back up glueins.

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
The last bit is cruxy, but unfortunately the rock up there is pretty mungy. It would be a lot more fun if the crux slab moves were on the high-quality grainy granite found elsewhere at PP instead of the baked crusty stuff.

Still a fun route though, with a very cool position. May 8, 2012
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Climbed this today and took a few forceful falls onto the rusty 1/4" bolt right above the belay, so I guess it's good, but it really should be replaced in my opinion (especially when the rest of the climb has nice half inchers). The rest of the route was very fun, painful on the fingertips though. Reminded me a lot of EBGB in josh, but thankfully not as scary. Feb 17, 2014
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
A great route! It definitely deserves more traffic! Great quality granite through out the climb. It feels like a more difficult loafers choice. The beginning section is a little spicy ,as far as protection is concerned, but the rest of the route is protected very well. Jan 9, 2015
Went up silhouette this morning, and there was a huge nest mid way through south crack. We didn't actually see a bird so we didn't let the rangers know. Please keep your eyes out if you decide to go up! If you find out it's active it might be worth letting the rangers know, better the crag gets shut down than someone gets hurt Jun 17, 2017
Ryan Borys
The West
  5.11
Ryan Borys   The West
  5.11
A tricky start (11a), followed by easy ground will take you to the top of a seam in the center of the face (5.9). From the top of the seam push for the roof, find your way through the very delicate thin face climbing (11c). Pull the roof and enjoy the victory stroll to the top (5.5).

Stellar route, my favorite route on the Pinnacles. I agree with the original 11c rating though. Nothing felt harder than mid 11. 7 days ago