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Routes in Pinnacle Peak

28th Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angels On My Mind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Woolsey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BeeGee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beelzebub T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brown Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
Chug A Lug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chutes and Ladders T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Death Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deep Throat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Deliverance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dried Oatmeal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeons and Dragons (AKA Burnt Toast) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ezy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Crying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line A2
Flight 5.11 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight 5.11 Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garber's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Give Me an Idea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hades T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Standing Around S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Discipline T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost Nuts T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Name It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parallax View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pecker Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peg Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rossetti Rose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shalaylay Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silhouette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tongue of Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown, left of Palo Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voluptuous Ham(ster) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Walk Up T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Parker, 1973--5.5 (chimney) Jim Waugh, Jim Zahnm 1985--5.8 (Arete)
Page Views: 417 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is getting past chossy stone and firmly engaging the chimney above an overhanging roof to the North of the chimney. After that, it is all about keeping a cool head as you make your way up the exposed, steep rock toward the top of the chimney, where an easy, protected (bolt) step across takes one to the North summit.

Protection

Large tube chocks (#5 Big Bro) will protect the 50 ft of chimney above. One might venture out left and clip the bolts on the arete (Hamster Variation), but a good 20 feet of climbing is needed above the horizontal before making the exposed move. At the top, one can either sling a boulder for an anchor, or run the rope all the way to the East side of the North summit, where 3 anchor bolts (huge) can be found.

Location

At the Northernmost part of the North Summit facing West. Approach from the Wedge trail and around the North side of the pinnacles.

Photos

Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
 
If one uses a blue (#4) big bro between the horizontal and the first bolt, a gold (#5) big bro can be used up higher so that the climb is well protected--particularly if both bolts are clipped. I'm guessing that would make it a 5.8 route, since climbing through the bolts is old school 5.8 (Jim Waugh). Great bolts and hangers!!! Nov 20, 2013