Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pinnacle Peak

28th Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angels On My Mind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Woolsey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BeeGee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beelzebub T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brown Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
Chug A Lug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chutes and Ladders T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Death Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deep Throat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Deliverance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dried Oatmeal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeons and Dragons (AKA Burnt Toast) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ezy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Crying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line A2
Flight 5.11 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight 5.11 Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garber's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Give Me an Idea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hades T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Standing Around S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Discipline T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost Nuts T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Name It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parallax View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pecker Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peg Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rossetti Rose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shalaylay Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silhouette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tongue of Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown, left of Palo Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voluptuous Ham(ster) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Walk Up T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Garber 1965
Page Views: 571 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Easy start with heady finish! Stem, Off-width, and Chimney your way to the top! Guaranteed to get your attention with smooth walls that make you think you might just slip out at any moment--and gear placement is a bit tricky, in close quarters. Otherwise, a piece of cake. ;-)

Location

On the West side of the main pinnacle towers about 30 ft. down from the top of Chutes and ladders. A 60 meter rope will get you to the bottom from the top, but the base of the climb can only be reached with 5th class scrambling--or another pitch to start. Can be reached by circling around the pinnacles from the North after going past the Wedge trail.

Protection

.4 to 3 inches. Cams work well in the cracks that surround the chimney. Nuts are a bit more tricky to place. Single anchor bolt (massive) that can be backed up.

Photos

Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
 
I went back and led it again. The second time, it was much easier--probably only 5.7 or so. :-) The pro is just a little tricky at the crux, or you can just run it out. ;-) Nov 20, 2013
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
 
I don't know how to rate this lead, but suffice it to say that I led a 5.8 chimney/off-width at Iso Canyon this past Fall, and Garber's is SIGNIFICANTLY harder! Chalk it up to smooth polished granite with little purchase to be found. What an excellent place to practice technique tho!!! I'm going to repeat it until it is easy! Feb 6, 2013