Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: F.A.: Unknown ; F.F.A: P. Kingsbury
Page Views: 82 total · 20/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 6, 2024
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This is the unknown aid line that connects into the “Bear Route’s” second pitch from directly below.

The “Free Bear Direct” route begins in a scrappy chimney (5.8) and continues up to a ledge at 30’ in an alcove. (optional belay, 3&4 Camelot for belay)  The route then steps right to a hand crack and then passes 2 (relatively recently replaced) bolts and a V6 boulder problem to enter the crack system with 2 equalized pins at the base of it.  Slightly run-out fingers on twin cracks leads to a distinct crux and then slightly easier and better protected climbing that leads to the ledge and anchor.


Rap or lower off, or connect into the Rossetti Rose route (which is where we think the OG route went).

Location Suggest change

South side of the Pinnacle.  It’s easiest to walk around from under Beelzebub and above the slabs, around the backside.

Watch out for an aggressive bee’s nest near the base when the weather is warm.  

Protection Suggest change

Rack: (in BD and a red point rack)

1x: 1./.2 offset , .3 , .5, 1

3x: 2

4x draws / runners minimum for the bolts, the pin and a fixed nut up high, with at least one long one.

Extra small pieces such as sliders, rp’s and the smallest of cams are nice for aiding it too.

Photos

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